Santorini

Sailed into the spectacular, shattered caldera of this still active volcanic island yesterday. The new harbour lies at the base of a serpentine road carved into the cliff facing the flooded crater. The white buildings that crowd the tops of the cliffs look like snow from a distance or in a bad photo. There are two main towns on the western shore of this volcanic plug, the Old Harbour port of Fira where we are staying and the popular sunset destination of Oia which lies at the entrance to the crater/harbour of Thera, the official name for Santorini which noone uses. To the east lie a series of beaches popular with the European visitors. We will drive to them on Saturday but not do much swimming.

I am writing this today because yesterday afternoon after our 3.10 hour voyage from Paros by Ferry, we went straight from the rather ordinary El Greco hotel (our standards are high after the luxury of Mykonos and Paros) to Fira. Once again, the town is a confusing web of narrow lanes hugging the contours of the clifftop, home to a wonderful variety of bars and restaurants, bric a brac shops, a few beggars and touts and 60 jewellery stores. At the second car rental/tour shop we entered, we signed up for a tour of the harbou and another Fiat Panda on Saturday. The friendly salesman offered Tess a card fo 10% discount at the jewellery store next door. I was unimpressed! In typical Greek style the first rental shop we tried was an unattended counter, without a bell, and little evidence of life - we left after waiting a minute.

The big thig on Santorini, as on Mykonos, is to watch the sun set over the Aegean Sea. So after walking along the clifftop path and avoiding most of the 600 steps descending to the old harbour below, we settled ourselves at a table above the cable car that provides an alternative means of climbing the cliff apart from said steps on foot or donkey. I must say, the donkey looks cute and i would prefer to give them my business but given my weight it would be too cruel on the poor mule. The view was spectacular. We ordered a half bottle of some of Santorini's famous volcanic soil wine and a pork Giros with pita bread and settled back to watchhe show. Well, not quite settled, as I was given the job of getting up and snapping a photo every minute and generally blocking the view of the Japanese diers sitting on the town side of us or the Italian couple (who didn't seem to notice my reguar intrusions in fact - ah, love) perched on the harbour side. The best table of all had recently been vacated by an American couple, much to the surprise of the waiter (but the sunset? he asked). She was getting cold apparently. Young love. This old married couple had learned our lesson and begun our dinner well after 8 pm.

So the sun set, we ordered a half bottle of the red (13 euro but what a location) and I got to finally sit and enjoy the view.

Today we return by bus to he new harbour and embark on a boat to visit Nea Kameni Island, the volcano. After climbing to the rim of the crater we will walk to some hot springs. Back in the boat for a peaceful lunch stop and swim on Thirasia Island (no roads)/ We then sail to the northern tip of Thera, Oia for another sunset. The rocks are supposed to reflect the light so well that every picture looks "professional", according to the receptionist. We shall see. Then back to El Greco by bus.

Yassu!
Geia Sou