Shopping on Santorini

Sipping a beer and fresh orange juice in the Atlantis Hotel (www.atlantishotel.gr), my pub of choice if I flew here again after a morning's shopping that would impress Pauleen in its extravagance. And none of it useful! Still have to buy the fridge magnets for the children. Hence the lack of compunction using their wifi.
More soon.

Mama Mia!

ABBA was blasting out over the beach at Kamera today on the Greek Island of Santorini. Celebrity watchers on the hunt for Pierce Brosnan were not disappointed when Aussi tourist Rob V (travelling incognito) donned his bathers and joined the brave swimmers enjoying this picturesque stretch of Aegean Sea.

While Tess sipped a local wine at her palm fringed table, Rob dazzled the locals with his Australian Crawl. Camera Hogging locals began jumping from the volcanic rocks that edged this clear patch of water which finally revealed why so many Europeans flock to these islands in search of sun. It was a civilised way to pass a few hours at the beach. Oh, the "sand" comprised rounded black pebbles which tickled rather than cut as you walked off the boardwalk to the sea. It was a lovely surprise to stumble upon on our morning's drive.

Yes we hired a car for the day. The island is not large - 5 euro would pay the petrol - and we feel we have seen most of its highlights.

Had planned to head out tonight fo one last sunset dinner - this time at Akiroka - but I can't negotiate these roads and navigate and the signs are all Greek to my navigator after 7 weeks stiurling service. She needs a short break or service.

Running out of light and battery. Enjoyed a sandwich on our balcony instead tonight and finishing off some accumulated snacks before tomorrow - checkout, return car, visit museum, shop a little, return to hotel for transfer to port, catch fast boat to Piraeus (only 5 hours!), find taxi to take us to City Plaza hotel, retrieve suitcases from storage, re-pack, eat something on the rooftop restaurant with views of Parthenon and then try to sleep before 3pm flight to Sydney on Monday. And I wonder why I am tired.

Giaio Sou (Yassu)

The People you meet

This photo was taken in our lovely hotel on Paros. The couple are Hans - a retired bus driver from Leiden and Elly - whose job I have forgotten. I should have blogged details earlier. Lovely people to share a meal with, talk about familes and friends far away and the enjoyment of discovering new places.

I appreciate the way people drop their normal reserve when talking to strangers on holiday. Tess in particular has enjoyed talking to plenty of strangers this trip and we have shared meals with a few of them as well. There was Peter and Daphne in Bury St Edmund's, Elly and Hans from Leiden in Holland above, Sasha and Tassos who came to Tess's rescue when she fell on Mykonos and yesterday on the cruise, Jules, a GP who inspected her bruises and Marie from England on the donkey. All very friendly and necessary even on a smooth trip to remind you of home and sharing the company of friends.

After almost 7 weeks on tour, we are ready for the long trip home - we sail at 1700 tomorrow for Piraeus

Running with the B.....Donkeys

Recovering after a late breakfast from our boat tour of Santorini Caldera and Oia Sunset. A packed 12 hour schedule began with a cruise from the new port of Santorini to the old one at the base of Fira. Cruise ships and millionaires use this port while ferry passengers land at the new which has road access - good by Greek standards.



I have created a folder on my iDisk on the internet to store google earth files (KML)
http://public.me.com/vinesfam1
I recommend the Paros tour and Santorini cruise. Let me know if they work.

Santorini

Sailed into the spectacular, shattered caldera of this still active volcanic island yesterday. The new harbour lies at the base of a serpentine road carved into the cliff facing the flooded crater. The white buildings that crowd the tops of the cliffs look like snow from a distance or in a bad photo. There are two main towns on the western shore of this volcanic plug, the Old Harbour port of Fira where we are staying and the popular sunset destination of Oia which lies at the entrance to the crater/harbour of Thera, the official name for Santorini which noone uses. To the east lie a series of beaches popular with the European visitors. We will drive to them on Saturday but not do much swimming.

I am writing this today because yesterday afternoon after our 3.10 hour voyage from Paros by Ferry, we went straight from the rather ordinary El Greco hotel (our standards are high after the luxury of Mykonos and Paros) to Fira. Once again, the town is a confusing web of narrow lanes hugging the contours of the clifftop, home to a wonderful variety of bars and restaurants, bric a brac shops, a few beggars and touts and 60 jewellery stores. At the second car rental/tour shop we entered, we signed up for a tour of the harbou and another Fiat Panda on Saturday. The friendly salesman offered Tess a card fo 10% discount at the jewellery store next door. I was unimpressed! In typical Greek style the first rental shop we tried was an unattended counter, without a bell, and little evidence of life - we left after waiting a minute.

The big thig on Santorini, as on Mykonos, is to watch the sun set over the Aegean Sea. So after walking along the clifftop path and avoiding most of the 600 steps descending to the old harbour below, we settled ourselves at a table above the cable car that provides an alternative means of climbing the cliff apart from said steps on foot or donkey. I must say, the donkey looks cute and i would prefer to give them my business but given my weight it would be too cruel on the poor mule. The view was spectacular. We ordered a half bottle of some of Santorini's famous volcanic soil wine and a pork Giros with pita bread and settled back to watchhe show. Well, not quite settled, as I was given the job of getting up and snapping a photo every minute and generally blocking the view of the Japanese diers sitting on the town side of us or the Italian couple (who didn't seem to notice my reguar intrusions in fact - ah, love) perched on the harbour side. The best table of all had recently been vacated by an American couple, much to the surprise of the waiter (but the sunset? he asked). She was getting cold apparently. Young love. This old married couple had learned our lesson and begun our dinner well after 8 pm.

So the sun set, we ordered a half bottle of the red (13 euro but what a location) and I got to finally sit and enjoy the view.

Today we return by bus to he new harbour and embark on a boat to visit Nea Kameni Island, the volcano. After climbing to the rim of the crater we will walk to some hot springs. Back in the boat for a peaceful lunch stop and swim on Thirasia Island (no roads)/ We then sail to the northern tip of Thera, Oia for another sunset. The rocks are supposed to reflect the light so well that every picture looks "professional", according to the receptionist. We shall see. Then back to El Greco by bus.

Yassu!
Geia Sou

Paros and Antiparos

6.30pm Getting used to the relaxed pace of life here. Arrived back at the Hotel Agnanti after a terrific day's sightseeing. Hired a Fiat Panda for 27 euro and circumnavigated the island in seven hours of easier than expected driving.

First stop was Pounda on the west coast where we caught a ferry to the island of Antiparos. We wandered the now familiar narrow lanes of its old port and fort - not much left of its Venetian glory. Blame the Turks I guess.

An hour or so later we returned to our little fiat and drove south past the airport and got lost in the beach town of Aliki. After that we learned to stay on the main road - there are few choices - and passed small and large towns including Drios and Marpissa before ariving at our second port of call, Lefkes. This traditional mountain village was formerly the capital of Paros and is now famous for ceramics. Unfortunately, all the shos selling them seemed closed - we are still a little early for the season.

We enjoyed an energetic clamber around its lanes before driving on to Naoussa, a picturesque fishing port on the northern shore of Paros. Here we finally (3pm) paused for a plate of Tzaziki and a beer while Tess attended to her latest injury.*

Finally we turned west again for Parikia, the capital of Paros and its ain port. We again found a convenient parking spot and explored its now familiar attractions. It also has a Byzantine Museum (closed 2-5pm) and old church. Everything on these islands is covered in a not-so-fine patina of dust which combined with the white builings and harsh bright sunlight makes even Australia seem cool and green.

By 5pm we had enjoyed enough of the island's attractions and found the road back too our hotel with only one mistake. Always glad to return a hire car undamaged. I relaxed with a swim in the excellent pool (half a dozen sunbakers but no swimmers) while Tess showered, cleaned her wounds and settled down with her book and a glass of the Rose rescued from lunch.

Finally, at 6.30 we settled here on the verandah of our hotel - we have it to ourselves - ordered a beer and settled down with our laptops for some photos and email. We will have an "early" dinner sitting with some new Dutch friends at 8.30 pm before retiring to our shuttered room for some baklava we bought in Parikia. Bliss!

Tomorrow we are collected at 10.20 am for ou ferry to Santorini which leavs at 11.55pm. I will pray for calm seas. I recorded parts of our journey with the GPS in my phone and once I work out where to store it for you, those with Google Earth may like to retrace our steps. Stay tuned.

Salut!

* Tess stubbed her thonged toe on a step in Lefkes today neccessitating the purchase of some expensive bandaids to stem the flow of blood. She has added this to the scraped knees and ruised chest from Mykonos in her injury tally. Don't want things to escalate on Santorini so may confine her to her room.

Calendar

I am also playing with google calendars in case they are worth adding in future. Here is the first attempt below. I think they can be uploaded to a phone. Will add more soon.

Paros Post

Sitting on a shaded balcony - alone - I am starting to sink into the Greek Isle lifestyle I missed in Mykonos. Sipping a Kaiser beer and listening to "Twenty Something" - Oh to be that age again but with middle aged money!
Tess is sinking even deeper in our room while I play on the wifi and look at the view - uploaded to Facebook.
Below is a short clip of this wonderful hotel. Great staff, views, rooms, pool and hopefully, tonight, I can add food. Earliest sitting is 8.30pm - we are yet to slip into the Mediterranean pace of life. We skip lunch after a big brekkie but it is a looong time before they serve dinner. We travelled home on the bus from Mykonos to Patasos Beach at 11pm last night after another excursion. Like our present hotel, it was a very nice resort but a us ride away from where you really wanted to be at night or for the history. It is a choice between bad plumbing and location or modern amenities outside the historic heart of the island. I'd go for the former next time.
Don't get me started on Greek bus drivers! The 60s military junta here of the Colonels would be proud of the petty fascists! Why do a service job if you hate tourists????

Mykonos

Our first breakfast on Mykonos in this plush hotel. Although Mykonos is known as the windy island, the day is going to be too hot for much exploring so we may have to settle beside the pool - no great hardship there. I like the way the Greeks leave you alone once you have a drink on the table - it seems to be yours till you want to leave. It may be different in peak season.

The fast boat here arrived at Midday and we were collected by our hotel and Di's by hers, not knowing where on the island she might have chosen via the net. Sure enough, she was in the hotel opposite! And her transfer was free!

Dinner last night in Mykonos was great except for the return walk to the bus when Tess (forgot her proper glasses this trip) fell on a step and hurt both knees. Fortunately her camera is still okay, saved by the UV filter. Tess is having a reading day for some reason.

I am slowly uploading some little clips of the hotel but eventually will get some of the good shots for this that Tess puts on her Facebook page.

Yassus!(?)

Fasten Your Seatbelts

All Aboard!

 

Our High Speed 4 catamaran is yet to clear the port of Piraeus so I don't know how fast it will go but we have aleady left a ferry in our wake. Fortunately, it is a sunny and calm day for our sailing to Mykonos. We have picked up a travelling companion in Athens. Di is working in Italy but has joined us for the first stage of our cruise. The boat is packed with a weekend crowd and the weathr forecast is for summer temperatures.

 

We arrived about 6 pm local time and wandered unhindered through customs. Our Benz taxi took off at a sedate  pace through the off ramps and the driver said little - he had programmed his GPS for the City Plaza Hotel and was either concentrating or waiting to see what sort of tourists we were. We must have passed the test because soon Kostas was chatting amiably in good English to us as we sped down the new freeways to Athens. Top speed I noted was 140 kmh but I was probably more nervous at 120 kmh when he drove without hands on the wheel. In traffic.

 

By this stage we were good friends. We passed a broken down bus on the freeway which confirmed the wisdom of out choice of transport - the metro is currently closed from the airport. The trip was otherwise unremarkable and soon we arrived at our hotel, a little grimy on the outside, the area definitely a little seedy in a bustling way, but reception was friendly and helpful. We have offloaded our heavy suitcases (Emma has loaded us up with her books and winter clothes - 37kg) for the island tour. Fortunately the coupl opposite us are non smokers but elswhere smokers rule! Very European.

 

The hotel has 4 man lifts (two of me) which took some sussing out but we discovered we had a 6am pickup for the ferry so we knew we would not see much of our room. We met Di for a drink and then went up to the rooftop bar which had a magnificent view of the Parthenon and St. Georges.  We had a lovely Greek meal with friendly staff and look forward to a slightly longer stay when we return.

 

This morning we awoke with a phone call from reception - our taxi was here. My alarm was set for 5.30 pm! Dressed and packed in record time we quickly joined Di and our patient driver who proceeded to demonstrate different driving skills from Kostas. While only peaking at 120kmh (in an 80 zone) he drove down the middle of two lanes in traffic, moving without indicating (except onto the freeway) between the lanes but generally keping his options open. It seemed to work as we avoided most of the traffic and other vehicles to be deposited right at our ferry.

 

About to leave land behind in the haze so will close and go for a walk.

 

Next stop Mykonos!

 

 

More from Tess

This is our second last night in England and our second evening in Bury ST Edmunds which has been a historical treasure trove. Their Cathedral is in the same beautiful stone as Bath yet in pristine condition. Inside was very grand and elegant and we were fortunate to hear for free a rehearsal for the organ recital / concert which is on this evening. We also found the smallest pub in England, which had standing room for no more than six people and enjoyed a half of cider. We ventured to the east coast today and felt the cold winds blowing from the North Sea very blustery. I did wonder why the lighthouse was actually in the town rather than on a headland? Travelling across we found a castle to explore and also a winery, so we stopped and sampled some English wines. The whites were very pleasant, apparently Ennglish winees are beginning to win the medals over here. Cambridge, we loved. The River Cam, the Colleges we saw (most were closed because of exams), the spring gardens and of course once again the narrow laneways, nooks and crannies that abound. The city bustled with young folk all at break neck speed on bicycles. I could see why Tim and Emma felt so at home there, much more charming and manageable than Oxford. After leaving Cambridge we visited the Cathedral city of Ely and climbed to the turrets and into the octagonal roof, there we stood with the angels (paintings) and had spectacular views. Its OK I'm not have a religious ephiphany I have ecided the Churches I most like are the ruined ones which are open to the sky and to nature. Well that is about all our news, I am feeling travel weary but this has certainly been a wonderful holiday, I feel that we have seen so much of the countryside, yet there is so much more to see. Greece does beckon to us. We are meeting up with a friend, Di in AThens and she will be joining us in Mykonos so that should be fun.

Packing

Today is our last day in England. Tomorrow we should meet up with a friend in our Athens hotel for an evening meal, all going well. Apparently the metro from the airport is closed and getting to town may be difficult. I'll let you know.

This morning Tess will have to pack back into two suitcases and some carry on luggage what has spread out over the car these past weeks. I hate travel days so I hope today will be a good one. We are breakfasting this morning with Peter and Daphne which shows how refined our travel habits have become!

The phone is programmed to navigate from here to our hotel at Heathrow via the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. Daphne has also suggested a visit to Levenham along the way. I also have to return a somewhat used Benz to Hertz. The scope for surprises is large. Who knows what will unfold?



The Priory Hotel has two rosettes for its restaurant and the service is very attentive - you feel like you are in a club rather than a hotel.

Why I write these entries

The past two days have been an object lesson in why I find it important to record the wonderful sights and experiences of a holiday like this. We had few plans for the last few days of our holiday here which is a luxury we can rarely afford. We set off from Cambridge with vague plans for staying at Bury St Edmunds and chose a hotel Tess liked the look of on the Net but we could just as easily have ended up in London. Despite our lack of itinerary, we have had no problem filling the long, almost summer length days with new delights. I know I would forget so much of the small detail of these experiences if I did not write them down. I need Tess's memory.

So our two free days started on Tuesday with our departure from Cambridge and included our fascinating tour of Ely Cathedral, as you read in a previous post. Tess needed some down time so we didn't even venture into town that night but instead enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant (two rosettes). In the lounge we met a lovely older couple, Peter and Daphne. Peter was an 18 yr old navigator in Bomber Command and later Transport Command, not one of the 55,000 who "bought it" during the war. He is frustrated by his slow recovery from a second hip replacement and by his inability to find all the pubs he used to visit around here in the 40s.

At breakfast on Wednesday we ran into them again and they suggested we visit their retirement neck of the woods at Southwold on the Suffolk coast. Our waitress also suggested a few places like Felixstowe (which we didn't get to as the wind was strong yesterday) so we had a rough outline of our morning at least. However, it was the way our day unfolded that was special and if I didn't record some details I know I would forget.

First discovery along the way was Framlingham Castle. You might know of it but it was a wonderful surprise to us. Then we saw a sign for Shawcross Wines. Tess was keen to try English wine and the first riesling I tasted was very pleasant, aromatic nose like a German wine. The tourist drive proved rather longer than I expected but it did take us through the Suffolk fenns and past more lovely churches. Already my memory is fading. I remember one vital road was closed but the phone led us down some garden paths back to the route and we were soon depositing 75p into the parking machine at Southwold Pier.

The lighthouse is situated, rather peculiarly to me, in a street in the town. I'd hate to be a neighbour. The Adnams brewery tour was on a Wednesday but didn't start till 2pm so we did not dally. Chose a more direct route back to Bury and arrived about 2pm. The medieval heart of the town starts at the gate to the ruined Abbey and leads to some beautiful and popular gardens. After snapping the new and ruined cathedrals, tinkling the ivories of a public piano (they've moved on from Sydney) and an encounter with tame squirrels (see video), I dragged Tess as quickly as I could towards the cathedral and some organ music I heard.

As luck would have it, a famous Italian organist was rehearsing for that night's concert so I captured plenty of video while I chatted to the senior man (rector?) - and saved money on recital tickets! From Church it was back into town in search of Britain's smallest pub, the Nutshell. Took us a while but we found it and tasted its wares. No loo though so we made our way back to the hotel.

Arranged breakfast with Peter and Daphne over dinner and then, just as we were retirning, got into a conversation about golf and tennis with two businessmen in the lounge. Finally to our room.

No wonder we haven't watched much tele.

LHR to Athens

London to Athens

Squeezed aboard an Olympic Airlines 737 I am glad it is only a 3 hour flight. Ready to leave England after a month's tour - 4000 miles - and looking forward to our 9 day island cruise.

Hit a little turbulence at present - long mesage in Greek as well.Cleared the channel and flying over Brussels at present. Made our way to Heathow from Bury yesterday via Lavenham, a 15th century wool town with crazy buildings. Then onto Duxford where I hoped to enjoy a quick tour of the Imperial War museum there, however the 16 pound entry fee was excessive for such a short visit so back on the M11 for a quick 70 mile trip.

29 Years Ago

Recovering in our room at the Priory Hotel, Bury St Edmunds after conquering the Octagon Tower of Ely (pronounced eel ee) Cathedral. Will upload photos later. We spent the morning walking around Cambridge which is like walking though a living postcard - so many quaint laneways and shoppes and beautiful sandstone colleges. Pedestrian friendly too compared with Oxford. Perhaps it was exam time but we saw less of the youthful exuberance evident in Oxford, particularly around the Head of the River!

29 years ago we might have been doing much the same thing after a tiring day sightseeing, albeit in a cheaper room. Cambridge might be celebrating its 800th anniversary in 2009 but for us it is almost 30 years since we backpacked or drove our mini around Britain. Much has changed and much has stayed the same. The folk seem friendlier but perhaps that's our age and experience at dealing with people showing - everyone has been kind and helpful, fom the bosun who rescued my drenched phone to the gate keeper at Clare College today who enjoyed chatting to someone about her patch and other sights in Cambridge worth seeing. Maybe I was in "tick it off" mode back in 1980. Interesting expressions when we tell people we were here 30 years ago - I look too young:)

Today was one of those days to treasure really. Wake in an 800 year old university town and wander its streets, easy drive to Ely with vague ideas about seeing its cathedral, find the perfect (and free!) parking spot, arrive just in time for the 1 pm tour of the Octagon Tower and suddenly discover so much of interest about this part of the world so soaked in history.

The 130 winding steps were cramped but offered plenty of vantage points in the ascent. Only 8 in the party guaranteed an informative tour and the climb provided some spectacular views both inside and out of the cathedral. Ely Cathedral is known locally as the "Ship of the Fens", towering above the marsh country surrounding it as it does. The Dutch apparently drained much of the fenns but it remains fertile if flat land. Early efforts to build a church at Ely were raised by the Danes and later the Reformation did much to alter what the Normans had begun, at least internally. Thankfully, the Nazis found it useful as a visual sighting for their inbound bombers and so it was spared (they also wanted to spare the landing fields around for when they had invaded).

After Tess had filled her camera card and exhausted her battery, it was time to head on to our next port of call, Bury St Edmunds. Again, we had little knowledge of it apart from the guidebook but the Priory Hotel rated highly according to Tess's research so here we are ready for yet another dinner out (starvation rations when we finally get home) and a town to explore tomorrow.

I'd be envious if it weren't me enjoying it!

Tess writes

Something fo blog

We are discovering the wilds of Scottish Atlantic Coast weather and are very happy to be in one of those older style hotels which have numerous rooms in which to relax and experience the viciousness of the storm while staying warm, dry and sipping a glass of red or cup of tea depending on the time of day. Last night, the storm and wind lashed the windows. It was really quite spectacular to watch how the harbour changed. And as Rob said 'there really is nothing between us and the ocean.' The weather even brought the larger fishing trawlers in last night to take refuge from the storm. Currently, we are in Oban a seaside village from which we could easily access the isles, but the seas are very high so I don't think we will be venturing to the Isle of Mull or Skye. it is a shame, I feel quite a longing to see them and explore the far north of Scotland. it must be my Scottish heritage coming to the fore. The B&B we stayed in at Loch Lomond was wonderful. Perched above the Loch and over gardens it afforded expansive views of the water and the mountains. It had been built to capture the view. The dining room had floor to ceiling glass which drew us into the natural setting and spring garden colours below. The low cloud, mist and light rain reflected in the water - an icy grey which occasionally captured the movement of light. The bedroom had the same aspect, so the falling rain and temperature were very bearable. Actually I think travel weariness has caught me, so the inclement weather and slowing of pace has come at a most opportune moment. After Loch Lomond we trundled north through the Scottish Highlands and again through the wind, falling rain and mist caught glimpses of desolate, foreboding snow capped peaks. The weather complemented the sense of isolation. By the time we reached Fort William which reminded me in its tiredness of Katoomba visibility was extremely limited and the mist had rolled in. And so we turned southward, abandoning the idea of further northern travel. Oh well, another time. We followed what was meant to be a most beautiful coastal drive to Oban - but we really saw little of it. I now understand why the British speak so much of the weather. I'd best go. The sun has decided to momentarily shine and we are off once more to explore the village.

Tess on Wordsworth

We actually visited Wordsworth's Dove Cottage yesterday and I must admit I felt the way I'm sure a pilgrim would at a sacred site. Standing in the cottage, remembering how much had been written within those walls and the poets who had joined him there certainly was a humbling and yet inspiration experience. Later we visited his family home but even though it was grander it was not the same as being in the cottage. its garden with the view of the lake. He always has been a favourite poet of mine. I especially love his Lucy Poems and feel there is so much beauty in The Solitary Reaper and his Prelude. We also explored Beatrix Potter countryside and now every time I see a rabbit, duck, farmer etc I think of her tales. They actually had a number of her drawings for viewing. They were delightful. Emma's favourite has always been Jemmina Puddleduck so I was happy to find her a postcard and bookmark bearing phrases from it. We found many steep, narrow roads to trundle along. The pass over Buttermere was probably the steepest, most remarkable and I'd imagine in the winter impassable. The last two days we have had clear blue skies and so the water has caught the hue of deep blue and shimmers in the sunlight beneath the most formidable of mountains.. Today has been very busy we caught a boat out of Ambleside to the other side of Windermere then walked along the lakeside for 4 miles and caught two boats back to the car and had some lunch overlooking the water. That was of course after a walk of equivalent length to the Village of Ambleside and back at what was far from a relaxing pace because of the ferry times. This afternoon we're recovering and will venture out later with Emma for dinner and a short drive. She hasn't been able to join us during the days because of a report that needs writing and study for her exams so it's good to drag her out in the evenings. AT the moment we are sitting as a very modern family does in a free wifi place with three computers open and connected to the internet. I will pass on your regards to her.

A City of Cycles

At least in its heart, Cambridge seems to have the highest concentration of bicycles I have encountered and like those cyclists in Berlin, they think they own the place!

Arrived here mid afternoon after a long drive through rain - torrential at times - to find most colleges closed to the public for Uni (actually typed Uno which may not be far from the truth) exams. Bugger.

Staying in the Arundel House Hotel, across the road from the Cam River. Recommended if you can afford the tariff. Tess and I are wearying of our frenetic pace - 3500 miles and 110 hours of driving in less than five weeks. We need a holiday!

Oh, that's right, in less than a week we will e swimming in the Aegean and sipping drinks at the pool bar of our (apparently) expensive hotel on Mykonos.

I should worry:)

Bl_c_po_l ___ton

The Hilton Hotel chain will probably not be happy with their Blackpool property missing the customary Hil at the front of their name on a sign we saw but it is perhaps symptomatic of the neglected feel we sensed in this unusual and probably very European seaside resort town. Famous for its Illuminations - neon signs and decorations stretching miles along its promenade - they were not alight during our stay. As the hotel porter admitted they were only lit up late September to try to extend the season. Disappointing but judging by the rest of the town it may not have been my cup of tea anyway.

Blackpool is a place for people who enjoy amusement parks, rides, getting drunk every night and partying. No wonder it is Europe's most popular holiday destination. But not for this old married couple. Mind you, not so old that we didn't lower the average age of guest in the Imperial Hotel by a few years. We splurged on expensive drinks in their No. 10 Bar yesterday, walls adorned with pictures of Prime Ministers and famous people of the past century who all stayed at the Imperial. Churchill had his own suite and special chair.

Can't see the point really. Tavel tip: If you want to visit Blackpool, stay at the Travelodge - its sign is fully lit, it's right in the heart of town and it's within easy stagger of every nightclub you're likely to visit. And miles from the ton.

Hey Jude

Another word from Tess

Well I have decided that Blackpool is the seedy, sleazy - quick give me another 's" - coastal town I have ever been in. It makes Las Vegas look tasteful and highbrow. We arrived yesterday, to satisfy our curiosity about this place we had heard so much about and never seen and within two hours of walking we found nothing that wasn't extremely down at heel.

And of course it decided to rain on us and a bitterly wind blew across the Atlantic. We decided to keep the illuminations for this evening and perhaps after seeing those we may change our mind about this place. We did manage to find a great place for dinner and believe me they are very rare here, an Indian Restaurant. Today was surprising. \Rob has been very keen to visit Liverpool and so we ventured in. It was wonderful. We went to the area called Albert Dock and from there walked the waterside and the city. Even though the weather deteriorated as we walked into driving wind and rain we really enjoyed ourselves. It is such an easy and interesting city to see. We found The Cavern, home of The Beatles, visited two museums one a Maritime and the other on Slavery, wandered through an art gallery but balked at paying the 12 pound 50 each to enter The Beatles Museum. Returning this evening we are beginning to relax into the evening before venturing out to find a cheap eat (they don't exist) and see the delights of this city at night. Take care, hang in there, tomorrow we head for Cambridge.

Once Again from Tess

I feel overwhelmed by travel weariness.
I think Rob is even beginning to slow, we must have actually spent five minutes sitting on a bench in the most beautiful gardens of Claire College. Cambridge is of course impressive, I think more like an European University City but I'd imagine you have visited it. This has been our first stay and I have just been looking at the photos I took and each one could be a postcard. The sun has shone for most of the day, only one downpour as we wandered the lanes, the Cam and the backs of Cambridge at leisure.
This afternoon we climbed to the top of Ely Cathedral and stood among the angels which decorated the ceiling. But now it's rest. I think I need a day of reading and listening to music, maybe tomorrow I'll send Rob on an adventure by himself.
We leave for Greece on Friday and given that Emma has filled one of our suitcases with her chattels and clothes it could take me a day to pack.

Homage to Liverpool

Back from a wonderful whistle stop tour of Liverpool today. Left before 9am and enjoyed empty roads for most of today (Sunday). Parked at Albert Dock, the cleverly designed tourist heart of Liverpool which combines its maritime and Beatles history in a pleasant pedestrian form.
Like Tess in he Lakes district seeking links with Wordsworth's past, I was keen this trip to include Liverpool, not knowing what to expect and yet knowing so much about it in other ways. Sunday morning was probably not the best time to see the music side but the weather shone enough to let us enjoy much of what the city had to offer.

I have cobbled together a little montage of the birthplace of the Beatles below.

Blackpool

Rose early and left Windemere by 8.30 am, much to the dismay of the owner in his dressing gown. Chose the A6 rather than the M6 to Blackpool and we did enjoy some relaxed touring to start the morning. However, a traffic jam south of Lancaster - seemed a lovely city - saw some hasty re-routing onto B roads until we hit the coast.

No trouble getting in to Blackpool or finding the Imperial Hotel on the North Promenade and managed to check in at 10.30 am. View of the industrial sites behind hotel and pathetic bathroom but will suffice for two nights. Mainly here out of curiosity - why is it so popular???? Look forward to the lights tonight but tomorrow we will leave early for a day trip to Liverpool.

Tess was appalled at the seedy, down-at-heel (Tess says sleasy) beach front and we did not find much to keep us there.

Using the business centre at present and will wander for a meal tonight, probably Indian.
What are we missing???

Ulverston Oh Ulverston

With apologies to Glenn Campbell or the bloke who wrote the song - you know Rachel. A wet day in Windemere (caught myself calling it Windy - time to move on) saw a late departure for the coast at Barrow-in-Furness. Ulverston looked a pretty little town as we passed through in the rain but Barrow is a big port like our Newcastle before the steel works closed. We did not dawdle. Went on one of our country lane detours in search of Geaston Water Mill and Castle. Not recommended.
Currently sipping in the Windemere Hotel awaiting a break in the weather. Last day today. Next stop, Blackpool and Liverpool. This grey weather is probably obligatory for the English seaside. Whitby was an aberration.
Will upload a picture later but just imagine a wet grey day and you have it. Tess is writing postcards and at the rate she is doing them if you miss out I would be worried!

Bath Bits and Lazarus

Way back in the first weeks of the holiday I had the brilliant idea to use Picassa, Google's photo program for PCs, to cobble together a quick video of photos and phone clips of Bath and if successful would do the same for Oxford et al. The "make video" process was pretty easy but the uploading of the completed video has defied all attempts. I blame pub broadband, but what can you expect for nothing?
Soooooooo
I have adopted a simpler course - a slideshow.
Remember, they are bits, not the best which are on Tess's Facebook pages at present.
But at least I have discovered a work around. Picassa is a good program.
And Lazarus??
Should be the name for my trusty Nokia Navigator.
Last report had it submerged in the bilge of The Lady of the Lake launch but I am pleased to say it has been rescued. Actually, I was so upset that the bosun's mate took pity and prised the planks up near where it had disappeared and lo and behold, grabbed its cord and brought it up. It was tracking our progress with Sportstracker (such a useful phone!) but the screen went black when I tried to turn it off.
Expecting to make a claim on insurance, I had my ticket autographed to the effect that a clumsy landlubber had dropped his phone on the boat. But careful (loving?) care afterwards saw it recover so far to full function. Back from the dead indeed.
Anyway, Below should be the Bath Bits slideshow. Enjoy!

Rob's Whitby

I finally have solved my photo frustrations.
Whitby was back during our time in Leeds but I wanted to share some of me pics. Tess took better ones. Check Facebook.
Cheers!

Penrith and Environs

What a day!
Just back to the Elleray after a longer than expected (they always are) tour of the neighbouring towns.

After dropping Emma off for the 10.50 to Manchester, we headed towards Kendal. After winding our way along the one-way by-pass roads, thanks to the phone, we spotted its historic heart to the right across another fast flowing river. Across the river ?????? stood an impressive 12th century church and other historic buildings now housing a renowned museum. Inside the church was a part of the cross dated 850 AD from the original church. Friendly steward told us of his visits to Oz.

Next was Sizergh Castle and gardens. I was impatient with the left turn queue which meant I headed in quite the wrong direction - it is actually yards from the A6 but phone took us through some tiny lanes, small even for the English. Finally arrived at Castle entrance and up the long drive with tantalising views as we drove along. Quick tour of gardens given overcast conditions and Tess keen to keep moving ahead of the tour groups. Could spend a long time here but weather conditions and travel weariness were not conducive this time. Enjoyed a bite to eat at the village pub - popular and well run - duck pate, mushroom soup and roast beef baguette.

Then it was on to Levin Hall and its famous topiary gardens. Reluctant to pay 10.50 pounds for what we couldn't see over the fence we instead enjoyed the park and river nearby and continued on our way north towards Penrith. Tess was determined to see another druid circle, Long Meg and her sisters. It was nowhere on my phone but fortunately some locals pointed us in the right direction. I have a short clip of the scene as Tess sought cosmic forces and to console herself over the loss of daughter.

Penrith also has some famous buildings and sights but time was ticking by. We had seen a couple of other ruined abbeys along the way but I will have t o get their names from photos.
Returned to Windemere via Ullswater in better weather and stopped off at some falls - a nice walk but hardly Niagara or even Katoomba Falls.

STAND BY FOR PHOTOS.

Lakeland Motor Museum

In Holker Hall, Cumbria, UK.
For car lovers everywhere.

Coniston Water

Took Emma with us this morning for what I expected to be a cruise in the Coniston Gondola, a graceful old boat you see here departing just a minute after we arrived too late for departure.



I guess we had left things late again but roadworks added 20 minutes to the trip and then we were caught behind a tourist coach for 3 miles on roads clearly unsuited to the vehicle.

Truth be told. the girls had decided the chill wind off the lake was not for them and they were happy to continue the drive around the lake famous for being still enough for Donald Campbell to attempt one too many water speed records.

Not at it best today despite some sunshine so I took advantage of our (relatively) close proximity to Holker Estate and its Lakeland Motor Museum for a quick visit. Tess and Emma went "gathering" while I paid for entry, a 1 pound photo licence and catalogue and proceeded to stroll around the exhibits. A great collection of paraphenalia which I have tried to upload to a web album for all to share.

Not wanting to back track I sought advice from the friendly ticket seller and our return trip took us on twisty lanes through the medieval village of Cartmel and tiny Grange over Sands.

A little shopping in Windemere and back for a late lunch and blogging. Now off to the pub and then back for a home cooked meal at last - mixed pasta of beef and spinach.

Accompanied by either a 2006 Saint Joseph Shiraz or 2005 Chianti Poggio Castagno - San Giovese. Or both!

Windemere Walk

Today I planned to do the cruise and walk trip taking us to the far shore of Lake Windemere, catching one ferry to Wray Castle Pier then what was described as an easy 4 mile walk to Ferry House and another short ride to Bowness (where we feasted on roast meats yesterday) and finally a lovely voyage almost up the length of the lake back to Waterhead, Ambleside.

Of course, we missed the 9.50 boat by a few minutes so we went for a walk through Ambleside. More of a canter than an amble as the next boat departure approached sooner than we expected! Hate England's narrow footpaths perilously close to passing wing mirrors.

No Nokia to drop this trip so I got to look at what I missed last trip amid the chaos I was causing having bilge covers lifted in a panic. Soon we were disembarking at the 1840 folly called Wray Castle. Looks the part but really just an eccentric waste of 60,000 pounds.There was a cold onshore wind off the lake as we began our mostly level walk along the shore which discouraged picnics or lengthy stops until we came to a few houses and a pleasant seat for our provisions. The beeches and copper beeches are looking good at present. We tried to grow a copper beech at Leura but a drought killed it well short of the 80+ years it needs to look like these. 

Tess was complaining a little to discover there were still 2.5 miles to go but the wind had eased and it was an easy walk to the wharf where a car ferry normally operated. The short trip to Bowness was uneventful but the highlight was the trip back to Waterhead. The water looked beautiful, the sun was shining and we took some great shots of The Langdale Chase Hotel where we stayed a night almost 30 years ao to celebrate our engagement.

After our exertions it was staright to the nearest pub, a popular Ambleside watering hole. Then back to our neglected studying daughter. We were too tired to do the planned afternoon excursion so we spent an hour in the Ellaray Pub, all three laptops catching up on email, etc. Then a short stagger to the lighthouse cafe in Acme House, Main Road , Windemere. GREAT desserts, decent coffee and I liked my tuna. Then back to Oakdene Apartments for some QI and Boston Legal on Emma's laptop.

And so to bed.

 

A Tale of Two Roads

DRAFT ONLY

We drove out of Windemere yesterday in search of Wordsworth, a poetry pilgrimage for Tess in the footsteps of her favourite Lakes Poets (nothing wrong with my punctuation - Coleridge as well).

We were headed for his birthplace Cockermouth which is about 40 miles from here via the crossroads town of Keswick.

First, however, we stopped at Dove Cottage in Ambleside on the southern(?) shore of Lake Windemere. Here William and sister Dorothy Wordsworth lived from about 1798 - 1808 in a small cottage with a view over the lake. It was during his time in Dove Cottage (a former pub) that he was married and had three children and wrote the best of his poems. Tess enjoyed the tour immensely and it is an interesting little house - the cold room, perched over a creek and always cold, was my favourite room. The children slept in one tiny bedroom lined with newspapers to keep the damp out. It didn't work. The historic homes are kept very dark to preserve the documents so you will need to wear your glasses. Some of the oil paintings are showing their age and could do with restoration but where is the money to come from? There is so much history in Europe generally and I suppose it cannot all be preserved - nor should be.

Anyway, to get to the title of this entry, as we left Lake Windemere and the town of Ambleside we were presented with two roads to Keswick and Cockermouth – the fast straight one of the wiggly tourist one. We turned left and meandered alongside Grasmere, Thirlmere, Buttermere and finally Derwent Water near Keswick (where the coloured pencils came from). It was slow going with lots of photo ops and traffic to contend with.

Keswick is a nice town. We defied the navigator phone by driving around some of its streets. Leaving the town we headed towards Holker Pass. An impressive climb to a slate mine then an equally dramatic descent to??????????

Finally arrived in Cockermouth after hours driving. Learnt how to park in a "Disc Zone". I'll show you my disc if you ask nicely. We were hungry after the drive so before heading to the National Trust (great buy that membership!) estate of John Wordsworth, we settled in the Hotel Wordsworth for lunch. Friendly and efficient barmaid was better than the fish and chips.

Refreshed and with only an hour left of the park, we ventured 200 yds down the main street to Wordsworth's birthplace. I was impressed with what the agent for a Lord could live in/afford and enjoyed the well furnished rooms, especially the kitchen. I wonder if i could organise an excursion there next time I have an Advanced class?

We travelled the fast road back to Windemere although there were still photo stops long the way. We arrived at Ambleside in time for a cruise on the Lake before heading back to collect Emma who had spent the day working on a Uni report. I lashed out on a roast dinner for all at Bowness for 3.75 pounds - fed and watered three of us for 17 pounds! It was a gambling joint but views were nice.

On a sad note, I lost my nokia navigator which had served me faithfully on this and previous trips as phone (only occasionally at roaming rates!), camera (many of all the photos on this blog and all the video) and of course GPS Navigator. I had just paid $15 for a 30 day licence on th UK Nokia Maps.

I was on the Lady of the Lake and moving to avoid the spray off Lake Windemere when my phone jumped from my pocket, bounced on the floor and off to the side of the old steamboat. Unfortunately, there was a two inch gap in the flooring at the sides of the boat which allowed the phone to slip below into the bilge.

I will miss it.

And I would have paid it off by July:(

C'est La Vie

Windemere Wanderings

Rose early today by English standards - after 9 and I almost had Windemere's streets to myself - and climbed Orrest Peak with its 360 degree views over Windemere and the high Fells of England's Lakes District. Beatrix Potter land as I was reminded today in Hawkshead.

I can see why the English enjoy their walking so much here despite the weather - the mild climate, plenty of variety in the scenery and birdsong everywhere makes it a more pleasurable pastime than back home. The Snowy and Blue Mountains provide their own unique pleasures but it always takes so long to get there before the walk starts. Here you walk past someone's gate or horse paddock and there it is - Herriot country! I hope the clip captures some of the peace and enjoyment early in the morning and the English ountryside which seems never far from a town. I was communing with nature/catching my breath at this point when I heard the sound of heavy breathing and watched a younger but more foolish man jog up the hill, eyes on the muddy path and earbuds blocking out the birdsong. Me last time I was here in 1980.

What should have been a 40 minute walk took considerably longer due to frequent pauses for breath and photos. Will try to make it a regular hike after all the hotel breakfasts. Tess has put back on starvation rations now we are self-catering.

The girls were ready by 11 to venture out so we motored along the shore of Lake Windemere towards Newby Bridge, stopping at Beech ???? and Fell Foot parks and then headed along the other shore via Grizedale Forest, Hawkshead and Ambleside (love that name). Soup and a sandwich at the Red Lion in Hawkshead washed down with a Hawkshead ale then back to Oak Street in the rain. Brightening up now (6pm) so will venture up to the Elleray Pub again for their wifi and collect an Indian takeaway on our return. Em is supposed to be studying but seems immersed in Tess's novel, aptly titled, The Girl Who Played with Fire, much to her mother's annoyance.

Some garden with a castle tomorrow and a cruise on Coniston Water in the arvo - I'll look out for Donald Campbell's ghost.

Cheers.

Muttley or the Pathetic Blogger

The day began with Muttley, the pet of the Lamb family who own and run Shieldhill Castle, performing his rabbit hunting tricks for me on a bitterly cold morning. We mostly enjoyed our anniversary night in the Castle - ask me what I didn't when you see me.

The Laird (wood chopper) and Lady (chef) were both friendly and down to earth but the Receptionist was the real gem. Shieldhill Castle was built in the 12th century and still has bits of the original - the staircase. Most of the public bits are post 15th C. They were hosting an Australian wine dinner the next night hence the high table, alas not for us. We slept in the stables.

After an excellent big breakfast we headed off for Windemere the slow way. Via twisty roads to Moffat and Penrith and Ullswater and other lovely parts of England. Need to consult the map for details.

The pathetic part of this entry is me - stuck here in this pub with free wifi at 10pm while my wife sits at home. On our 28th anniversary.

It's not as bad as it sounds, however. She is cuddling her daughter over a glass of red.

And I did put her up in a castle for her anniversary if you count it as AEST!

Thanks, make that a half of Hawkshead ale:)

Shieldhill Castle

Last night we slept in the stables of a 12th century castle south of Glasgow. The receptionist was so accomodating that we overcame an initial reluctance to spend the extra. The weather has been so cold, wet and windy that we have needed more than just a hotel room to spend our downtime in. The castle lies outside the town of Biggar.

Today we head further south to Windemere in the Lakes District of England. The Scots have been as friendly as our English hosts on the whole and we have enjoyed the scenery despite the weather. Staying a whole week in the one place will be a nice change, especially if the weather is such that we can exercise a little and enjoy the long days of a northern Spring.

Touring by car has proved to be quite a relaxing and liberating experience - once you overcome the fear of a prang. I wonder how the Benz will handle the hills and dales of Windemere? More easily than our ancient Mini 850 did in 1980.

Stayed in more historic buildings back then though, thanks to the YHA. La plus ca change ....

 

 

Modern Traveller

This was meant to be a tale of the thoroughly tech savvy traveller showing how it's done. You know the sort of article i mean where the correspondent uses his smartphone to plan the route, book accommodation, select and book a restaurant all while hurtling down the motorway.
Well I have already mentioned the navigation blip in the previous post but when we had cleared Glasgow and were speeding down the M8 our thoughts turned to a bed for the night. It was after 4pm and we had been in the car most of the day (thank God for Car????? Castle) so we decided to check out the accommodation offered at the Services 20 miles south of Glasgow.
Turned off to discover there was only fuel and motorway food (to be avoided) so I consulted the phone. It came up with a long list of pubs and hotels nearby and the name Shieldhill Castle took my fancy. I phoned the number and discovered the castle originated in the 1100s and was indeed a hotel. It was expensive but I was curious to check it out and perhaps stay cheaper in nearby Biggar.
I was given some directions but again entrusted navigation to Nokia Maps.
All went well for the first 8 miles until we were directed off the main road onto a minor one which Tess was unable to confirm immediately. We wended our way along small roads through some very small villages with Tess questioning the wisdom of the route. It does have a very literal mind when it comes to the best route and had chosen one a crow might have flow.
we did eventually arrive at the Castle, not from the direction Reception expected but here nevertheless. My faith in the phone,however, is a little shaken.
Maps and common sense still have their place in the modern travller's suitcase.

Thers's a wrong way to Inverary

Have you ever driven a scenic drive and felt it would have been better the other direction?
You know, the best views or the parking spots are always across the road, confirmed by the direction of travel of most traffic.
I have an unhappy knack of driving scenic drives in th wrong direction. In 2007 we drove the wrong way around the Ring o Kerry It was so obvious and so annoying that I drove it the right way th next day, adding quite a few miles to the trip. Then last Xmas in New Zealand, we were told of the beautiful Queen Charlotte Sound drive from Nelson to Havelock. It's 40k of very windy roads and you can take it from me, it is much better driven from the Havelock end.
So to today's drive, down Scotland's Argyll coast. It has been a long day of driving but mostly relaxing. The phone took us into Glasgow which wa a mistake but otherwise we headed in the right direction. If you look at a map, we had headed north from Tarbet through Glencoe to Fort William and down to Oban. Today we completed the loop back to Arrocher and Tarbet and then we had to make our way back towards the Lakes District where we stay for a week from tomorrow.
We left Oban in squally showery weather which continued all day but with enough breaks in the rain to shine some light on the mountains and the water. The first part of the drive was beside the the various inlets including Loch Fyne and was enjoyable. I realised we were going the wrong direction, however, after leaving Inverary. Not only had it sprung upon us so that only a local would know what it was, we had actually left the place before we realised what a gem it was. Had we approached it from the south, tell tale signs like a beautiful one laned arched bridge over a river, Inverary Castle on your right or the town itself reflected off the waters of ???????? would have suggested a stop. There was proably even a town sign.
Fortunately, we chucked a yewie after the bridge and headed back to the castle and managed to see some of the sights.
It was not over yet, however. The road began to climb steeply past impressive snow clad peaks but the first sign of a viewing platform was all the people on my right as we headed back down the narrow mountain pass towards Arrochar. Impossible to turn here so no photos of that impressive Scottish valley from me.
Bugger.

A word or two from Tess...

So many years ago when we were first over here we stayed at The Langdale Chase Hotel in the Lakes District to celebrate our engagement. I know it's still in existence and as we will once again be in that area I  think at the very least it calls for an afternoon tea or dinner there. Emma will be joining us at Windermere. It will be nice to be self catering for a week. I do miss home cooking on these holidays. I hate to think what these hearty English breakfasts are doing to my cholesterol. If only I'd had it taken before we left.
We are discovering the wilds of Scottish Atlantic Coast weather and are very happy to be in one  of those older style hotels which have numerous rooms in which to relax and experience the viciousness of the storm while staying warm, dry and sipping a glass of red or cup of tea depending on the time of day. Last night, the storm and wind lashed the windows. It was really quite spectacular to watch how the harbour changed.  And as Rob said 'there really is nothing between us and the ocean.' The weather even brought the larger fishing trawlers in last night to take refuge from the storm. Currently, we are in Oban a seaside village from which we could easily access the isles, but the seas are very high so I don't think we will be venturing to the Isle of Mull or Skye. it is a shame, I feel quite a longing to see them and explore the far north of Scotland. it must be my Scottish heritage coming to the fore. The B&B we stayed in at Loch Lomond was wonderful. Perched above the Loch and over gardens it afforded expansive views of the water and the mountains. It had been built to capture the view. The dining room had floor to ceiling glass which drew us into the natural setting and spring garden colours below. The low cloud, mist and light rain reflected in the water - an icy grey which occasionally captured  the movement of light. The bedroom had the same aspect, so the falling rain and temperature were very bearable. Actually I think travel weariness has caught me, so the inclement weather and slowing of pace has come at a most opportune moment. After Loch Lomond we trundled north through the Scottish Highlands and again through the wind, falling rain and mist caught glimpses of desolate, foreboding snow capped peaks. The weather complemented the sense of isolation. By the time we reached Fort William which reminded me in its tiredness of Katoomba visibility was extremely limited and the mist had rolled in. And so we turned southward, abandoning the idea of further northern travel. Oh well, another time. We followed what was meant to be a most beautiful coastal drive to Oban - but we really saw little of it. I now understand why the British speak so much of the weather.  I'd best go. The sun has decided to momentarily shine and we are off once more to explore the village.

The Hotel Breakfast Diet

I may have discovered a soon to be fad diet - the Full English Breakfast Diet. Not necessarily a weight loss diet, it nevertheless has done wonders for my gout which had been playing up for the past months. I blame the low fat and low carb diet full of fish that Tess had me on. After a few weeks of eggs and bacon and sausages and baked beans for breakfast, my gout has gone!

Of course, it might be that I'm drinking less than when I'm at work but I prefer to blame the low fat diet.

This is my first use of email as a post so that I can compose offline so let's hope it works. I've also changd settings so that you can "react" to a post although they do no provide a "stupid" option. Don't blame me.

Should I try to add a photo to this post? It might overload blogger. Next time.

Before I close, a few words on our first night here at The Caledonian, Oban. The weather has been foul - the trawlers hove to last night because of the winds, swell and rain which hit against our harbour view windows. Sounded like a gale at Thredbo. The temperature last night on my walk to Tesco was also Thredbo in Winter temperature. In May!

Our room is lovely in the day. At night, a powerful streetlight at window height allowed plenty of light through even with the blinds drawn. And don't start me on the old inner spring mattress!

Kippers for breakfast helped ease the memory.

Tess is planning an inside day given the either. Can't blame her.

Cheers.
PS The video below is for the benefit of an old salt I know. Will post a picture of the hotel when I upload them.

Oban and the Argyll Coast

Greetings
from Oban, Scotland's Argyll coast.
Nothing like video to capture weather.
Also the hire car on the right.
We left our comfortable B&B at Tarbet on Loch Lomond this morning in much better weather. Tess had plotted our course over the high mountains - Scottish ski fields in fact - of the Highlands leading to Glencoe. The mountains were suitably tall and forbidding but I was left thinking more favourably of te scenery on New Zealand's Crowne Range road from Wanaka to Queenstown. Tess seemed to react more positively and I think her McMurtrie blood is surfacing as my English roots resist the charms of the Highlands - at least in this weather.
This footage was taken from a lovely old hotel with a great view of the water at Fort William and while we enjoyed a coffee I made a booking for a sister property in Oban, the Caledonian. Our bedroom is large and decorated with real furniture fitting the period of this old lady. The free wifi is a bonus too - Tess and I are currently updating our various bts on separate laptops in the lounge over a bottle of red and a chees plate. Very civilised at 6.30pm!
I have been in reception downloading maps so I had better rejoin her! Bye.

The Tele

Oh dear!

BBC News – Mostly bad news, surprisingly sensational for the beeb.

BBC2 – Live snooker, 24 hrs per day. Unbelievable. Darts at night sometimes

ITV – News and soaps badly done

BBC4 – sometimes watchable.

Four or five channels devoted to reality TV

Four five channels devoted to British, American and australian soaps

BBC ? 24 hours swine flu

SkyNews

Sky sport

French Channel – sometimes better news than the beeb

several foreign language stations.

Earlier hotels had more channels including Topgear but not here..

Old episodes of Grand Designs have been the hit for me. And the odd movie.

I know, I should be outside but not all the time. Given my druthers I'd be on the Net but not here at the Novotel. Curse the French!

I miss my dvd recorder.

Tech Stuff

In 2007 we discovered how much fun it is to have a laptop on holiday for blogging and playing with photos. The macbook served us well except for its catastrophic failure to backup photos to DVD (never really fixed). I took to sitting on balconies hoping to pick up free wifi.

In NZ last Xmas we took this tiny toshiba netbook and would play a slideshow of that day's photos in lieu of tele but Tess missed her macbook.This trip we took both laptops (and powerboard) which allows Tess to spend hours on her photos while I compile a succinct report on the day's events. A card reader was a good investment to save camera battery. We have three cameras including the Canon, my Nokia phone and the Panasonic Video camera which takes a nice still too.

Lack of wifi has been frustrating as even photo software works better with a net connection and I expect next trip to find a wifi world. As it is, tonight we will lug our laptops to a nearby pub and sit opposite each other as we enter our separate net worlds. And sip our drinks slowly.

Navigation

Not content with a phone that also serves as a GPS navigator, I have been playing with Nokia Maps in Scotland. The reason is money. Route 66 charge 10-15 euros for every 20 sq mile of the UK which adds up. I bought Bath, Oxford, Leeds and London but baulked at any more. They work well and help in the cities but Tess and her ￡4 road atlas were set for Scotland and The Lakes District,

So I downloaded the trial licence for Nokia's software and their maps of Scotland and England – just one for each place so much cheaper – free in fact for a week. They work well enough although I can't get a voice (crippled for the trial?) and I hope I have prevented it going off all the time for the internet. At Home it would allow for all the fancy things like traffic updates but I am just restricting it here to GPS input which sould be free. In theory.

I have also tracked our various excursions for google earth so we can elive them when we return. All vey exciting.

The Car

A Mercedes C180K SE in Silver (KO08UKS) is probably fairly low tech but I have enjoyed having such a thorough test drive. Today saw perhaps the most wet and twisty of the roads we have travelled and the Benz handled all with plomb – even with Tess at the wheel. She is not impressed with its low rent interior and lack of luxury appointments compared with her BMW but it was not to blame for a 12 mile detour to Ben Lomond we enjoyed while I tried to have rest from the wheel. Nokia was telling her to do a U turn for 6 miles until we came to the dead end. Even this entry model has great engineering – quiet and smooth and sure footed and easy on fuel.

In three weeks we have spent 60 hours touring in the car covering 3200 miles at an average speed of 35 mph (60kmh for the children) and 38mpg.

Postage

I mailed a postcard to school one Friday evening and an email with photo to George an hour later. Considering it might have sat there for the weekend I was impressed that the postcard was in his hands in Penrith by Thursday, less than a week later. Who knows how long it was in the school system! So well done British Post.

Phones

Don't ask me!

I thought I was clever buying a travel sim before leavng Australia but it has proved of limited use. Unexpectedly, Tess's phone seems to be locked by Optus and it only works in mine which is also our Navigator. I activated global roaming as a backup (it costs the earth but at least it does work). The ravel Sim has this weird, I'll hone ou back connection method. I have tried many times to message Tim and Rebecca at work but without success. We even bought another phone – a ￡10 Nokia and can txt and talk to Em to our heart's content but again, overseas calls and texts seem verboten.

I've given up. No one seems to have been desperate to contact us anyway.

Will either throw the new phone into the Aegean on our cruise or leave it with Em.

Sound

After missing music in NZ, we remembered to pack the iTrip this time and listen to 40G of music and audio books stored on an ancient and rarely synced ipod. So much for reliabilty and battery problems! Surprising how often the same songs come up again though. Emma and I fight a little over the music selection. Apart from insisting on playing her own playlists (with modern music) she doesn't like Mr Shuffle which I think is the next best thing to ….

Tess tells me to let her have her way.

Scotland – The Trossachs

Drizzle tending to rain in the afternoon.

Not ideal sightseeing conditions but what can you do? Sit in the room looking at Loch Lomond? Sounded a plan to me but Tess had a route planned and the plumber was going to park us in for the day. So sightseeing it was.

First stop was meant to be the Falls of ???? but I thought the turn off sign was a 500 yds to go warning – it wasn't – and with traffic up my tail I decided against hitting the anchors.So we missed them.

Passing through Crianlarich, our next stop was the village of Killin and the Falls of Dochart where the river tumbles towards Loch Tay and cascades over a series of rocks in the heart of the village. Below the falls is Ainchbuidh, the burial island of Clan McNab (this last bit was straight from the brochure – well written isn't it?).

Then it was on to the Braes of Balquihidder to visit the grave of Rob Roy. I was expecting another crowded tourist trap but it was unexpectedly tranquil and picturesque. His grave (he lived into his 70s!) and those of his wife and two boys lies before the ruins of the old Kirk – church – and there is a lovely “new” church nearby and a rushing stream with a pleasant walk to Creag anTuirc above the scene. Looks like Hollywood failed to send any profits from its film to the parish left to care for this monument. Just as well.

I felt uncomfortable driving along a one lane road/bike path to the town of Strathyre. No passing places and me expecting to have to back up at any moment. It all ended well. This area really caters well for cyclists. Pity about the drenching rain though suckers!

Climbing Dukes Pass we descend towards Brig O' Turk and Loch Katrine where I watched the 1.40 sailing of the steamer Sir Walter Scott. Looked like fun.

Then onto Aberfoyle, our little diversion to Ben Lomond and back through Balloch to Tarbet.

Can't wait fo our visit to the pub.

The Otley Run

The other day they ran the London Marathon. This morning I watched from bed the Edinburgh 10K. Most evenings this week as we drove Emma to Boddington Hall along the Otley Road from Leeds. It is home to over 40 pubs and it is a badge of honour for some students to complete the above run, involving visits to all 40+ pubs. And presumably have a drink at each.
Tonight we passed young men wearing dresses their mothers would have been happy to povide, certainly not their girlfriends – if they had one. And girls in very short dresses.Yesterday it was girls in very colourful costumes. The “runners” are not hard to spot and given their lack of road sense it paays to keep an eye on them.
The Otley Road goes past some parks, a ruined cathedral starting with K , lots of colleges and small hotels, plentiful restaurants and pubs (as previously noted) an then eventually we leave the congestion behind, cross a major roundabout and so to Emma's college. She has enjoyed her time at Boddington and it is far from grey and drab where she lives.
She has done some jogging in the area but is yet to try an Otley Run. I don't want to know if she does.

Why Mum Loved England

No, it wasn't the food or beer or the weather. It was their love of dogs which she shared. I have been reminded of things she said about England throughout my time here. Nice.