Tuesday, October 16, 2012
Washington Day 2 Sightseeing
A much more relaxed start to the day. Art or Blogging till 10.30am then across Calvert Street for breakfast - chorizo scramble and poached egg with salmon and avocado. I was going to order grits but the waiter insisted I try them first - he was right, I did hate them.
We have to leave the delightful Omni Horesham for the Washington Plaza today, our digs for the next two days.
Who Dat?
I meant to use this cheer earlier. It could be heard high up in our suite (box) at the NOLA Superdome during the game against the San Diego ????? Whenever Rose or Lillie introduced us we were thanked as ending the Saints 4 game losing streak. "Who dat goin to beat dem Saints?" is their favourite cheer. When the opposition has possession, the home side cheers, jeers and yells to make it hard for the Quarterback to hear the calls. Nasty.
I enjoyed both the live and TV games I watched. There are fewer injuries or fights than NRL or AFL and the game moved quickly. Very hard to follow the ball which is the idea I guess.
Southerners really are different. They are very courteous and engage in conversations at the slightest encouragement (Rose). 55 years of Protestant reserve does not disappear overnight though.
Tess is impatient for me to move to the gate. I will upload photos later.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
I enjoyed both the live and TV games I watched. There are fewer injuries or fights than NRL or AFL and the game moved quickly. Very hard to follow the ball which is the idea I guess.
Southerners really are different. They are very courteous and engage in conversations at the slightest encouragement (Rose). 55 years of Protestant reserve does not disappear overnight though.
Tess is impatient for me to move to the gate. I will upload photos later.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:World Way,Los Angeles,United States
Sunday, October 14, 2012
Donning Instructions
I love that expression. Unlike the relatively Hi-tech jackets aboard an aeroplane, those aboard the Steamboat Natchez were definitely
the time one would "don" as the water rose over the bow. Our 11.30 river cruise down the Mississippi lacked the promised jazz but still filled a gap in our list of experiences.
Another excellent live commentary - the US don't seem to go in for the impersonal recorded commentaries you get in Australia and elsewhere - as we paddled down the Mississippi, around Algeria Point (200 feet of water and a sharp bend) beside various factories and refineries. New Orleans is certainly more working port than Sydney these days.
The sun was hot but the boat sensibly provided ample shade. It was built way back in 1975 but uses a steam engine taken from a 1914 vessel that was converted to something else. It is entirely paddle wheel powered although as we returned to dock, I heard the skipper mention "thrusters" which was a bit of a give away. Still, mostly authentic.
Earlier, we had been chauffeured to Lillie's work downtown and wandered the old quarter near Canal Street. Some lovely hotels, galleries, jewelry shops and boutiques I could imagine locals - as opposed to tourists - visiting.
That evening, we dined with Rose and Lillie and Katie and Kerry at Arnaud's, a classy institution with high ceilings and tiled floors. Seafood dominates the menu as usual although I sampled some veal as well as crab cake and ?????? Rose had an amazing coffee desert called Cafe Brulot which involved the peel of an orange and lots of liqueurs and flame. Pictures to follow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
the time one would "don" as the water rose over the bow. Our 11.30 river cruise down the Mississippi lacked the promised jazz but still filled a gap in our list of experiences.
Another excellent live commentary - the US don't seem to go in for the impersonal recorded commentaries you get in Australia and elsewhere - as we paddled down the Mississippi, around Algeria Point (200 feet of water and a sharp bend) beside various factories and refineries. New Orleans is certainly more working port than Sydney these days.
The sun was hot but the boat sensibly provided ample shade. It was built way back in 1975 but uses a steam engine taken from a 1914 vessel that was converted to something else. It is entirely paddle wheel powered although as we returned to dock, I heard the skipper mention "thrusters" which was a bit of a give away. Still, mostly authentic.
Earlier, we had been chauffeured to Lillie's work downtown and wandered the old quarter near Canal Street. Some lovely hotels, galleries, jewelry shops and boutiques I could imagine locals - as opposed to tourists - visiting.
That evening, we dined with Rose and Lillie and Katie and Kerry at Arnaud's, a classy institution with high ceilings and tiled floors. Seafood dominates the menu as usual although I sampled some veal as well as crab cake and ?????? Rose had an amazing coffee desert called Cafe Brulot which involved the peel of an orange and lots of liqueurs and flame. Pictures to follow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:22nd St,New Orleans,United States
Notes from New Orelans
Awoke here to the alarming sound of gunfire - deer hunters nearby - soon followed by a cacophony of barking. Not hunting hounds - some neighbours just like keeping dogs. Why not seven?
I'm not sure whether hunters are over represented in mass homicide statistics or not but for me, it is a suspect activity and not a sport. I felt uneasy on the few occasions I have chatted with hunters. Anyone with ready access to a range of weapons - and I include crossbows high up that list - makes my skin crawl. Guess I'll have to resign from the NRA!
Walking through this woodland to the not-so-distant sound of gunfire, I could not imagine Robert Frost writing "The Road Not Taken" here. Not that a Louisiana forest is without its charms. The trees are not as colourful or arranged in neat rows but there are plenty of birds and the sound of crickets greeted us last night as we arrived after our meal at the Magnolia Cafe. Rose had the shrimp poboy, Tess and Lillie burgers of some description and I chose the pork chop for my gouty toe, avoiding the cajun spices that predominate in dishes around these parts.
I have not been blogging much because we have been busy. Yesterday, Rose drove us through the lower 9th Quarter, devastated by 25 feet of water when the Industrial levee nearby broke during Katrina. Various housing projects (thanks Branjolina and Jimmy Carter) have slowly brought life back to the neighbourhood but there are still signs of the ravages of flood. Rose was surprised at how much building had occurred and later showed us the Musician's neighbourhood on the other side of the bridge which had been built courtesy of Harry Connick Junior, son of the former DA.
Then for contrast, she drove up and around the St Charles Street "quarter". Here were your southern mansions - some already decorated for Halloween - lining the route of Mardi Gras. Beads were visible hanging off trees and fences where they had missed their targets. Plenty of professionals live and practise in this area. There is a lovely Bayou running through parts of it.
St Francisville is about a two hour drive from New Orleans although traffic around the capital, Baton Rouge can add hours apparently. The cabin is hardly primitive as photos of the twin satellite dishes at the front will show when I manage to upload them. All the comforts of home. Rose stocked the many bird feeders nearby and this morning I tried unsuccessfully to photograph some of the small birds feeding nearby. No dear despite her generous sprinkling of corn. I ran in to a nearby who said they were probably lying low given the hunters. Don't blame them. I have no confidence that stray bullets will not come my way.
We spend another night here then it is back to New Orleans for a big Sunday dinner with Lillie's family. Then a leisurely pack before catching the 4.45pm to LAX and the 9.35pm to SYD. Another wonderful trip is drawing to a close. We are a lucky generation.
Photos to follow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
I'm not sure whether hunters are over represented in mass homicide statistics or not but for me, it is a suspect activity and not a sport. I felt uneasy on the few occasions I have chatted with hunters. Anyone with ready access to a range of weapons - and I include crossbows high up that list - makes my skin crawl. Guess I'll have to resign from the NRA!
Walking through this woodland to the not-so-distant sound of gunfire, I could not imagine Robert Frost writing "The Road Not Taken" here. Not that a Louisiana forest is without its charms. The trees are not as colourful or arranged in neat rows but there are plenty of birds and the sound of crickets greeted us last night as we arrived after our meal at the Magnolia Cafe. Rose had the shrimp poboy, Tess and Lillie burgers of some description and I chose the pork chop for my gouty toe, avoiding the cajun spices that predominate in dishes around these parts.
I have not been blogging much because we have been busy. Yesterday, Rose drove us through the lower 9th Quarter, devastated by 25 feet of water when the Industrial levee nearby broke during Katrina. Various housing projects (thanks Branjolina and Jimmy Carter) have slowly brought life back to the neighbourhood but there are still signs of the ravages of flood. Rose was surprised at how much building had occurred and later showed us the Musician's neighbourhood on the other side of the bridge which had been built courtesy of Harry Connick Junior, son of the former DA.
Then for contrast, she drove up and around the St Charles Street "quarter". Here were your southern mansions - some already decorated for Halloween - lining the route of Mardi Gras. Beads were visible hanging off trees and fences where they had missed their targets. Plenty of professionals live and practise in this area. There is a lovely Bayou running through parts of it.
St Francisville is about a two hour drive from New Orleans although traffic around the capital, Baton Rouge can add hours apparently. The cabin is hardly primitive as photos of the twin satellite dishes at the front will show when I manage to upload them. All the comforts of home. Rose stocked the many bird feeders nearby and this morning I tried unsuccessfully to photograph some of the small birds feeding nearby. No dear despite her generous sprinkling of corn. I ran in to a nearby who said they were probably lying low given the hunters. Don't blame them. I have no confidence that stray bullets will not come my way.
We spend another night here then it is back to New Orleans for a big Sunday dinner with Lillie's family. Then a leisurely pack before catching the 4.45pm to LAX and the 9.35pm to SYD. Another wonderful trip is drawing to a close. We are a lucky generation.
Photos to follow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:St Francisville,United States
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Salem
We made an early start under blue skies yesterday for Salem. It involved catching the T from Symphony (Green Line) to Haymarket where we transferred to the Orange Line which took us to North Station. Here we bought a commuter rail ticket for the Rockport Line which led to Salem. There were plenty of tourists along for the ride.
We wanted to visit Salem because we teach The Crucible, Arthur Miller's play about the hysteria surrounding the witch trials and Senator McCarthy's anti-communist crusade of the 1950s. So 30 minutes later we arrived at a typical US station - rather neglected even by Australian standards - and followed the crowd towards the town. I wasn't sure what to expect. I knew it would be more than the small village of the 1690s of the play but the reality was rather disappointing at first.
While we posed for a silly, Good-Luck-Yr12- photo in front of a Salem sign, we heard a noise just like a prison door closing from the movies. We discovered it was the pedestrian crossing signal in these parts. An awful noise but given the large prison population in the States, perhaps just conditioning??
Given the volume of tourists, the town is well sign posted. Our first stop should have been a lovely ice cream shop (due to delays it was now midday, time for some food!) but instead we walked a way in the sun to the Salem Witch House, one of many tourist traps to avoid and the main business for the town given the American Halloween tradition. We then made our way to the excellent touirst information office where a kindly old gentlemen from National Parks gave us some good tips for teachers wanting to know the real history of the town.
Salem holds an important place in American history quite separate from the unfortunate witch trials of 1692. It was the Colony's largest port before New York and Boston overtook it as it silted up. Because of trade with the West Indies and England, Salem became an early battleground in the American Revolution and the Harbour we visited shows off this proud heritage.
Most of those accused of Witchcraft came from the neighbouring Salem Village, now called Danvers. A visit will have to wait for next trip (Salem would make a good base for a car tour of New England) but what remains of the larger town after the fire of 1914 is still impressive in places - lovely historic buildings of the Federal period. They look Georgian to me.
Salem Bank
Salem Tree
Bewitched filmed here too
Bored Ferry Passenger
Peabody Maritime Museum
Best address in town
One of the accused
They love Halloween
Ivy League
210mm telephoto
Logan Airport
Old Graveyard, Salem
Old Town Hall, now Museum
Good Luck Year 12!
Lovely Harbor
Kitch
Great Lunch
Hard to avoid
Tired Tess
In fact, Tess is having a morning to herself while I explore more of the city and its sights. Like NYC and Washington, we have barely touched the surface. Friendly people too - we met more than I needed on the return T last night! Need conductors.
Saw the city lights last night from atop the Prudential Tower before dining at the 5 Napkins Burger joint nearby. Tess enjoyed her lamb burger. I had hotdogs. Chow!
We wanted to visit Salem because we teach The Crucible, Arthur Miller's play about the hysteria surrounding the witch trials and Senator McCarthy's anti-communist crusade of the 1950s. So 30 minutes later we arrived at a typical US station - rather neglected even by Australian standards - and followed the crowd towards the town. I wasn't sure what to expect. I knew it would be more than the small village of the 1690s of the play but the reality was rather disappointing at first.
While we posed for a silly, Good-Luck-Yr12- photo in front of a Salem sign, we heard a noise just like a prison door closing from the movies. We discovered it was the pedestrian crossing signal in these parts. An awful noise but given the large prison population in the States, perhaps just conditioning??
Given the volume of tourists, the town is well sign posted. Our first stop should have been a lovely ice cream shop (due to delays it was now midday, time for some food!) but instead we walked a way in the sun to the Salem Witch House, one of many tourist traps to avoid and the main business for the town given the American Halloween tradition. We then made our way to the excellent touirst information office where a kindly old gentlemen from National Parks gave us some good tips for teachers wanting to know the real history of the town.
Salem holds an important place in American history quite separate from the unfortunate witch trials of 1692. It was the Colony's largest port before New York and Boston overtook it as it silted up. Because of trade with the West Indies and England, Salem became an early battleground in the American Revolution and the Harbour we visited shows off this proud heritage.
Most of those accused of Witchcraft came from the neighbouring Salem Village, now called Danvers. A visit will have to wait for next trip (Salem would make a good base for a car tour of New England) but what remains of the larger town after the fire of 1914 is still impressive in places - lovely historic buildings of the Federal period. They look Georgian to me.
In fact, Tess is having a morning to herself while I explore more of the city and its sights. Like NYC and Washington, we have barely touched the surface. Friendly people too - we met more than I needed on the return T last night! Need conductors.
Saw the city lights last night from atop the Prudential Tower before dining at the 5 Napkins Burger joint nearby. Tess enjoyed her lamb burger. I had hotdogs. Chow!
Friday, October 5, 2012
Loud Noises and Disappointments
Resting and recovering here in our spacious room - more motel than hotel in feel - with a Becks and G&T after a late morning T and stroll along Boston's Harbor. Tess is suffering from headaches so we are not pushing ourselves hard. The weather is damply overcast again - tall buildings disappear in the fog.
Bought a weekly ticket for the T and local buses for just $18 from a very friendly employee. If only Sydney had such a ticket. Hopped out at Hay-market for an enjoyable walk to the ferry wharfs and decided to train to Salem tomorrow morning and ferry back. Better than an organised tour from our hotel which would cost more, involve a long trip in a cramped coach, picking up other passengers across town, listening to info I know already from a desperately cheery guide/driver and having to add a tip at the end of it all.
Listening to my iphone which is really just an expensive ipod on this trip. Sounds remarkably good in this room though so no need for any speakers. Which brings me to the title.
We arrived at Back Bay station yesterday around 4pm and caught a cab the very short distance to our hotel. A tenner included a sizable tip! After staying in swish hotels all trip this one is disappointing. Well located and with lots of parking but more a local haunt or backpacker place than our style these days. The Desk was slow to welcome us as they were placing a dinner order for themselves at the time. The old carpets smelt of tobacco, the smoke detector was smoke yellow and overall, our room was disappointing. Then the earth started to tremble as downstairs turned on their AC. The Manager assured us he knew how to solve the problem so we went out and returned to a quiet room ..... until 10.30pm when I turned in after watching the Debate.
Before that, however, we had wandered downtown a little then made our way back to the Prudential Centre for dinner at Legal Seafood, everywhere in Boston. They were busy so we took a beeper and went to the Bar for a pre-dinner drink. Unfortunately, while I went the the washroom, Tess, perhaps in a pre-headache moment of confusion, told the waitress we would eat perched on high stools (which she hates) where we sat. It was too late to change when I returned which meant we ate seafood tasting batter perched uncomfortably on stools in a noisy bar with a woman next to us TALKING at the top of her voice to her companion. Despite the noise in the bar, I can tell you she had worked for KPMG and disliked "pert" Sally who did ........ !!!!! On and on:-((((((
Can't say which was worse on the box - the Debate or Dirty Dancing. I tended to switch to the movie when slippery Mitt was speaking. The debate was not helped by the Debate commission allowing PBS's old Lerner too much say in the format which was dull and encouraged rote answers. I didn't learn much from it except that Romney would be disastrous for the planet if he won.
Back to bed and suddenly the ground started shaking, and not for exciting reasons but the AC below again. Very tired, I phoned the Desk and to cut a long story short, we moved all our luggage at 11pm to a quieter room. You can still hear the neighbours through the walls and the plumbing but we slept until a yelling match this morning, possibly between the manager and the guest from the room below us with the noisy AC. There were yells about punching and lawyers but no gunshots. It seems the sort of place - not quite a dive - that might have witnessed its share of gun homicide in the past but when all is said and done, we just need a room. A fridge would be nice though. It does have a pizza vending machine though:)
The wifi will only allow one machine so Tess is on. Will add some photos and upload tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Bought a weekly ticket for the T and local buses for just $18 from a very friendly employee. If only Sydney had such a ticket. Hopped out at Hay-market for an enjoyable walk to the ferry wharfs and decided to train to Salem tomorrow morning and ferry back. Better than an organised tour from our hotel which would cost more, involve a long trip in a cramped coach, picking up other passengers across town, listening to info I know already from a desperately cheery guide/driver and having to add a tip at the end of it all.
Listening to my iphone which is really just an expensive ipod on this trip. Sounds remarkably good in this room though so no need for any speakers. Which brings me to the title.
We arrived at Back Bay station yesterday around 4pm and caught a cab the very short distance to our hotel. A tenner included a sizable tip! After staying in swish hotels all trip this one is disappointing. Well located and with lots of parking but more a local haunt or backpacker place than our style these days. The Desk was slow to welcome us as they were placing a dinner order for themselves at the time. The old carpets smelt of tobacco, the smoke detector was smoke yellow and overall, our room was disappointing. Then the earth started to tremble as downstairs turned on their AC. The Manager assured us he knew how to solve the problem so we went out and returned to a quiet room ..... until 10.30pm when I turned in after watching the Debate.
Before that, however, we had wandered downtown a little then made our way back to the Prudential Centre for dinner at Legal Seafood, everywhere in Boston. They were busy so we took a beeper and went to the Bar for a pre-dinner drink. Unfortunately, while I went the the washroom, Tess, perhaps in a pre-headache moment of confusion, told the waitress we would eat perched on high stools (which she hates) where we sat. It was too late to change when I returned which meant we ate seafood tasting batter perched uncomfortably on stools in a noisy bar with a woman next to us TALKING at the top of her voice to her companion. Despite the noise in the bar, I can tell you she had worked for KPMG and disliked "pert" Sally who did ........ !!!!! On and on:-((((((
Can't say which was worse on the box - the Debate or Dirty Dancing. I tended to switch to the movie when slippery Mitt was speaking. The debate was not helped by the Debate commission allowing PBS's old Lerner too much say in the format which was dull and encouraged rote answers. I didn't learn much from it except that Romney would be disastrous for the planet if he won.
Back to bed and suddenly the ground started shaking, and not for exciting reasons but the AC below again. Very tired, I phoned the Desk and to cut a long story short, we moved all our luggage at 11pm to a quieter room. You can still hear the neighbours through the walls and the plumbing but we slept until a yelling match this morning, possibly between the manager and the guest from the room below us with the noisy AC. There were yells about punching and lawyers but no gunshots. It seems the sort of place - not quite a dive - that might have witnessed its share of gun homicide in the past but when all is said and done, we just need a room. A fridge would be nice though. It does have a pizza vending machine though:)
The wifi will only allow one machine so Tess is on. Will add some photos and upload tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Mid Town Boston
Always Read the (red) Fine Print
Sitting in the first class Amtrak lounge waiting for my first US train trip, a 6 hour to Boston. Weather is overcast and very muggy but I hope the views will be good.
Last night before the tour, we snatched a quick drink and Nachos upstairs in Union Station, thinking it was Happy hour as the sign below indicated. However, when our bill arrived we discovered our mistake, too quickly pointed out by our server to be rare. It was only happy hour prices if served at the bar (the bit in faint red on the sign). I left him a buck as a tip.
DC by Night tour was well worth it. Our driver/guide with an encyclopedic knowledge of DC barely drew breath as he detailed a million facts about the memorials, museums and other sights we were witnessing. And lots of tips on where to find free parking. God knows how he can drive as well, given that he holds the mike with one hand! In Oz, they would make do with a pre-recorded, far less personal tour. Nice.
We had wondered if it might be an open top coach like our hop on tours but we needn't have worried. The last two days here have been warm and wet.
Lighting certainly adds to these white marble monuments which the designers of the Vietnam and Martin Luther memorials forgot.
The Korean was even spookier at night with the reflections of the statues. Vietnam was just a dark walk. No contest between the two.
Jefferson was spectacular but a bit Greco Roman for me. School kids everywhere last night in their obligatory blue T-Shirts. Note the no handguns sign on the door at the entrance to the washrooms at Jefferson. Only in ....
The new Martin Luther memorial was designed by a Chinese sculptor and we thought Martin had a bit of a Mao look to him. I didn't like the massive stone style either - more suited to megalomaniacs like Stalin and Mao than Baptist preachers. I would sack the design committee.
FDR's 4 rooms for four terms was underwhelming. Another bright idea that should have been discarded by the selection panel. Perhaps it looks better in the daytime. Tess was suffering fatigue so we did not dawdle. Caught a cab to Union Station each way which was probably an expensive mistake due to traffic, much like our dining experience.
Just pulling in to New Haven. The train trip has been disappointing scenery wise but enjoyable otherwise. Nothing like a little bubbly with breakfast! And while the free meals are more economy than first class, the drinks keep coming! It was an expensive ticket but we deserve spoiling:) Two hours will see us arrive at south station, Boston and hopefully an easy ride to our Mid Town Hotel. Tess wants to see Salem but otherwise we are pretty open to offers as the Tour gave us a good taste of Boston.
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Location:1st St NE,Washington,United States
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Exhaustion sets in
Visiting Dignitaries, The White House, DC
Flopped in the Lobby of this palatial hotel after a loong day of sightseeing in Washington. The weather is perfect and headed hotter - 86F on Wednesday which probably puts an end to our chances of catching Autumn colour in Boston. We need cold.
Touching my lucky penny at Lincoln's feet.
After 2 weeks living out of suitcases and changing rooms each night, tiredness set in with a vengeance today. We began late, at 8.20am with an excellent 4 hour tour of the monuments and history with a local guide. A quiet Sunday was ideal for wandering through Arlington Cemetery, the Korean and Vietnam war memorials (I'm with the critics on the latter),
Gen. RL Lee's former pad before he deserted the Northern cause.
Eerie statue reflection, Korean War Memorial, DC
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