Gary Ablett had a son!

I thought the team that paid $9 million for him was buying a player well past his use by date. Turns out its Ablett Junior! Who would have known it except the few followers out there of aussi rules? He is pretty good too and the papers here are full of him. Very confusing when your knowledge of AFL is a bit sketchy.
We are happily ensconced in the welcoming embrace of Wogarno Homestead, just south of Mt Magnet. It is raining. Who knows if we will be bogged tomorrow. Wynn and I are paying $50 for our own shearer's quarters while Ross and Jean are camping. Enough said.
It was an 8 hour drive today from New Norcia. The highlights were Dalwallinu, Paynes Find, a gold ore battery worth a visit ( see photos), and our sausage dinner with NN bread.
Power here is off batteries or generator so will keep this short. Tomorrow we head off to Mt Magnet, the crossroads to the midwest, and Cue, an old historic mining town.
It is 10.30 pm. We should have been in bed hours ago. We have to speak in whispers. I've never known such early sleepers!
It is very quiet here and if it wasn't cloudy and wet, the sky would be ablaze with stars.
Jean is mourning the loss of a dozen free range eggs, labelled, "laid by Audrey, Shirley, Debbie, Claire and Julia" to indicate pedigree. We left in the fridge at NN.
I'm concerned at the prospect at a late night visit to the loo in the dark here.
Time for bed.
Rob Vines

North by NO

The Le Quesne ML270 CDI has an onboard compass set to German because the English version insists on miles and gallons. Our bearing for this trip is NO, nor east in English.
Early start this morning after a delightful night in the New Norcia Hotel. Our Destination today is Mt. Magnet, about 4 hours away into hotter and dryer country. The land has been lush green so far.
Hobbled around this historic town yesterday afternoon. Two imposing schools for (mostly aboriginal) children, presumably removed/stolen from their parents many years ago. The Mission was founded by Spanish Monks who named the town for the Italian town where their Order was founded. The second Abbot, Torres, was an architect so the buildings are quite ornate which I hope the photos indicate. Mind you, the family have taken all the good cameras leaving me with an old cheapie so apologies for the limited shots.
We tried some beers last night, the local Abbey brew and my preference, Kosciusko, from Jindabyne! Go figure! (have been listening to Garrison Keeler). Dinner was beef and Guinness stew. Ross ate a vegetarian pizza made on the local and famous flour base. The fish of the day was, naturally, not local.
So it is just after 9am and our continental breakfast and we are waiting for Ross to finish packing. Weather is pleasantly cool and overcast. More details tonight.

Rob Vines

Sydney to Perth

The posts that follow (in the stupid reverse order of blogs) are of my short Spring holiday with my friends in Perth. Some lovely photos to follow so come back or check them out on Facebook. Or not.

Woke early today which should enable some sleep on the long flight. It wasn't daylight or too much sleep so it must have been worrying about catching the flight today after yesterday's Virgin Blue chaos. Not being a patient queue person at the best of times, the prospect of a 4 hour or longer wait to checkin did not help my sleep. So I rose early to finish whatever was left in the pantry and consider packing.
Long dependence on Tess for packing left me apprehensive about leaving something crucial behind and my backpack is remarkably light. However, I had plenty of time before the 15.30 scheduled departure so I managed to watch the Coco Chanel movie, mark some yr 7 tests and join my friend Ruth who had kindly offered a lift to the airport.
Allowing even more time than normal, I arrived at 13.30, crutches taped together and walked straight to the front of the queue, which wasn't much anyway. Ten minutes later I had passed through security and sat down with a coffee. Go figure!
I'm still waiting, however, as the flight has been delayed by an hour for no reason given. I suspect chaos lurks just below the surface.
A technological glitch seems to have deleted most of my iBooks. Won't be able to fix it till I return. Thanks for your Amazon books Rose!
See you in Perth.

Rob Vines

Arrived safe before 9 pm Perth time. I always hate travel days and they always use a day, no matter the distance.

Day 6 _ London to Paris

We returned to the closed roads of London town. The Pope had inconvenienced us once more,this time we were dropped further from home, which necessitated not only a ride on the Tube but a change online at Kings Cross. Exhausted once agin, we trudged to the hotel, after a brief sojourn in the local Starbucks for free wi fi, knowing that our next day was to commence at 4am.. Day 1 of The Cosmopolitan Tour.


Last Hours In London
This holiday has been dominated by three am starts. The departure from Sydney scheduled for 6am necessitated a taxi ride at that hour, jet lag in Dubai saw us sipping tea and chatting at that time and now our departure from London again broke our sleep ( while for an insomniac such as myself it has been manageable, it is taking a mean toll on my traveling companion)
The London streets were empty as we sped through them in search of the others who were to join us, then on to Dover ( 2 hours), across the Channel (90 minutes), and Calais to Paris (4 hrs 30mins) one would think that rest would follow such a journey but we are far from fainthearted travelers. Bags deposited into the room ( aside, it is here that our chronic shopper, comes unstuck, or rather her bag that decides that it can hold no more and bursts at the seems warranting bandaging and strapping and a new approach to packing) returned to the bus 30 minutes later for sightseeing and a boat cruise at night on The Seine.

The Arc de Triumph

Which stands in the centre of six roads, is a challenge for all merging and turning drivers. It is unlined, traffic converges and diverges in all directions and yet it somehow works, without the sounds of horns blaring or drivers screaming. Apparently, there is only one rule, give way to the right, and on listening to Gabrielle who took us through the Paris tour, the appropriate expression for surprising encounters with vehicles is ooh laa laa which she used on a number of occasions. Our Italian driver, Antonio seems to have other expressions which he favours while Barry, our tour guide, remains unfazed by it all with his mind more directed to his charges and the schedules which must be kept.

And so we were spilled upon The Champs élysées to enjoy the buzz in the air, the designer stores and our first true taste of France. And so we explored, slowly at leisure walking this famous avenue.Postcards were purchased, photos taken, and shops beckoned in their most artistic ways. I almost succumbed to a pair of deep, blue crystal earrings. But at the eleventh hour resisted.


Back on the bus, with the light falling we began to see the Paris evening opening before us. A quick stop to film the Eiffel Tower and then down to the docks for The cruise and Paris at night. The night though cool still allowed us to sit outside.
Historic buildings line this river and their beauty is enhanced by the illumination of the lights. Especially, the eiffel tower which sparkles with a silver light, overplaying the gold illumination and penetrating the night sky with a signal beam. We passed under the many bridges of Paris, slowly cruising the Seine and the seeing the play of light upon the water and the buildings.
Eventually it was home to bed, a few hours sleep and ....

Paris by Day
With Gabrielle, a petite French women with a revolutionary vision, and an exceptional knowledge of this city, its history and art. Through the streets, Antonio was guided. He wended through the Chaos of Paris, steering through narrow arches that we would hesitate to drive anything but a fiat bambino through, he thread his way through the throng of cars and managed (just) not to skittles the pedestrians who walked with a sense of abandonment. As we emerged at Napoleon's Tomb for a photo shot, they came from nowhere, with their jingle of Eiffel tower, scarves, watches, these hawkers who surrounded us. Some overly eager for a sale, and seeing a prospective sale in the hesitant interest of the young girls seated opposite, began to climb the stairs of the bus until Gabrielle ever vigilant expelled them from the bus.

And then we were once again weaving through the street, into the student quarter, the administrative section, past consulates and on to the Eiffel tour which rose within a bevy of tourists. Once again we took precedent over the waiting queues and entered the lifts to emerge on the second flight. Speaking of flight,it is what Mary Ann, intrepid traveler almost took. Her Achilles heel has been detected -an anxiety, a phobia - and one shared with her sister - a fear of heights. With caution she left the safety of the lift and with trepidation approached the railing for the marvellous views of Paris. With circled the tower enjoying Paris held in all directions before us.


With no time for coffee only for encounters with more hawkers and an elderly Gypsy woman with a cragged, and ancient face, who told of her woes through a note. " My husband is dead, my son has leukemia, I have three children to feed, please some money." we couldn't help but wonder at the age of these children, for she appeared in excess of 90, however we were impressed that she had learnt a new way. We would have found her much more convincing had she told us that she would curse us, spit on us etc if we did not help.. . And so we moved on with little generosity in our hearts, to the Louvre.


Again I feel humbled as I enter the Louvre not it's overturned glass security pyramid but the museum itself. I'm sure it is a place that one could spend part of each day of ones life exploring, sitting and thinking. Each room has so much to offer but as always when you are a traveler time does not afford that luxury. Yet this visit was significant, Gabrielle was a wonderful guide, just the right amount of information. She showed us the highlights as we would know them and then explained many others aaa she past. I spoke as though she had a fine arts degree, with a knowledge not only of the artist butt the historical and personal context in which it had been written. She also spoke of the style of art, of colour and brushstroke. I am never sure why the Mona Lisa is so revered, there are so many others that I prefer. She believed the Mona lisa is esteemed so highly because of the publicity is has been given. Apparently it was stolen in 1911 and it was
only when the thief tried to sell it to a dealer in 1914 that it was recovered. The ensuing publicity was what brought it to the attention of the public and so established it's reputation. And so under her guidance she lead us through the louvre. Antiquity, classic, romantics, Byzantium art, landscapes, raphaelites, pre-Raphaelites etc but all the time we felt she had a particular fondness for the art of the revolution and for Napoleon who followed.

Eventually we emerged and after a cold mineral water returned to our coach, to re turn for a brief rest, shower, change and then we were whisked away once more to The infamous Moulin Rouge.



Unfortunately, cameras were prohibited. However we have photographed the program to record the spectacular visual feast of the night. We expected a down at heel theatre, a true faded rose and yet although, yes, the tables were packed in and crowded,it was something that didn't matter. Everything was incidental to the performance itself. The food was nondescript, though the desert rich chocolate was so rich that even Rob would have had trouble finishing it. . The beginning of the evening was filled with cabaret singers. Strong voices, sometimes jazz numbers and at times more popular music drawn from our vintage sang forth. They were excellent, though not given the attention they truly deserved. And then came the girls - such beauty, vitality and energy.


Descriptions will not do the evening justice. But dancing, chorus lines, singers, a mosaic of different periods, times and styles blended together, ventriloquists, acrobatics, circus performances etc - one following fluently after the other filled the stage. It was without doubt the most spectacular show I have seen.


I know that people have had trouble opening the entries I've sent and thought maybe this would work as an update.
I will write more personal emails especially now that we finally have free wifi. We are now in Barcelona after two big days of travels. Avaignon I will write up soon - a walled city, pal is of the popes situated on a fast flowing River. The people on the coach are very friendly, mostly Australian.
Best wishes
Tess
If you want pictures visit the blog I will send you the link in another email.

Day 5 - The Classical Tour

Bath - Salisbury cathedral - Stonehenge

Once again we were greeted, by our dormitory mistress, who swept us onto the bus with the same spiel from yesterday and who discharged us at Victoria Station into the care of, Saskia, a Spanish speaking, buxom, fading rose who spent all her time speaking to the four Spanish passengers and little time addressing the rest of the English speaking bus. She was flirtatious by nature and gave generous attention to the males in the company. She loved her voice, and spoke at great volume of her exploits and travels. The tour was obviously about her and not the places we were visiting. Perhaps a little harsh!

We sped along motorways until descending into Georgian splendor, heightened by the fortuitous festival of celebration. Many were in period costume, wandering through the squares and streets. We felt, as though we were "Lost in Austen"

The Cathedral greeted us with it's tall spires and as we approached The Roman Baths we were once again pleased to be able to walk past the waiting crowds. Bath was busier than anywhere we had been in London.


There was opera in the square - street theatre - and those in nineteenth Century costume who added a dynamic quality and richness to Bath

The Roman Baths
Really are a must. Rob and I had missed them on our last visit, only capturing a photo through a window. Today we explored them at a leisurely pace and were stunned at how much still existed from this Roman period. 97% of the original baths still and existed and these represent the most complete find in the whole world.


Time was running out, as I hustled and bustled Mary Ann (intent on coffee and lunch) to the esplanade, to view the Roman spillway of The Avon. The sun shone, the breeze was still and the water sparkled as we looked to the long boats berthed at the further bank. Unfortunately, no time to wander but perhaps just enough for a sandwich to be bought and a caramel slice to surreptitiously find its way into my fellow travelers bag. I fear she is starting to collect rations, for those days of sightseeing when there is too little time and too much to see waste it on such leisurely activities as dining.
It was a taste of Bath for Mary Ann, next time much longer stay is promised to explore the narrow lanes and old town of this city.



Saskia forgave all for eating on the bus as we drove to Salisbury to view the Cathedral. Follett's novel The Pillars of the Church was based on this cathedral which had a window for every day of the year,a pillar for each month, etc - faulty memory ! And for Greg it housed the oldest mechanical clock in British history. It had no hands, nor face but chimed on the hour and worked by a series of pulleys and cogs
We spent an hour and a half studying this church and reading the Magna Carta. As with many of these large Cathedrals given their cavernous nature there is no sense of Intimacy, nor chapels for quiet contemplation in which to reflect. We were particularly enthralled by the tombs which dated from the 12th Century.


And finally for prehistory, Stonehenge which raises more questions than there are answers

Why ? How ? When?
Remains virtually unanswered and yet it remains quite a humbling, and spiritual place to visit. Perhaps it is the warmth of the stone that draws us, or some faint ancestral voice but it remains in spite of all, a fascination sight that speaks to us still. And so, adhering to the path with audiotape in hand we encircled the stones.
I must say, it was here that the worst coffee was bought and tossed!
And surprisingly,another opportunity for shopping, for she who can't be named but has 8 grandchildren.

Day 4? London City Tour

Began with A dishevelled Money Penny, trench coat flapping, socks oversized, crumpling around ankles, orders barking who officiously ushered usnonto a courtesy bus at 7.30. She was of the ilk of a dorm monitor, bus monitor, the student who loves to boss. She took us back to our school days, as she chided us for our disorganization with tickets, even though she was the tardy one and grimaced when we were slow to respond to her seat belt instructions and the grimace of disapproval she shot at Mary Ann who rather facetiously quoted her line about procedure, which we had held for the umpteenth time at every hotel we had picked up from, was enough to censure our behaviour for at least ten seconds. But undaunted we retained a little of our defiant nature and chose not to wear our seatbelt on the next day regardless of her sage and stern advice and glances.

Fortunately, she was not our guide for the day.
But Heather, a Glaswegian, who fearlessly lead us through the crowded streets of London with a tartan umbrella unfurled above her head. And we followed!

The bus drove the congested streets of the West End - Priscilla, Educating Rita, the Phantom, Mousetrap ...... Narrow lane ways ran higgledypickledy from the major clogged arteries. We would have loved to wonder at leisure but as with all tours we were on a schedule.
First stop:
A visit to buckingham Palace, who would have thought. Though we had hoped for a reception with those in high office, we felt less slighted when we learnt the queen had not even remained for the pope, whose papal visit was to play havoc with streets of London during the weekend. We were running ahead of road closures but police presence was high. We felt like paparazzi standing outside the gates of the palace. From the park side the palace had a graceful elegance, softened by the parkland, water and autumnal flowers.
Second Stop

Albert Hall.
Throughout, as we travelled narrow roads and byways through the city, Heather related interesting tidbits of history and although I would like to retell some here - two days and countries have passed and so to my memory. But maybe - we heard : about the tax on daylight which was measured by the number of windows a house had, thus the term daylight robbery and how the only people who died in the great fire, did not die of burns or smoke inhalation but of drowning, fleeing the fire they had jumped into the water of the Thames, only to drown. And of course the history of Victoria and Albert, their commitment and how interested he was in progress and architecture. And so we stood before the Albert Hall and the monument which honoured him. In need of coffee and a short break we were shown the horse guard, which did not change for us but stood in regal formation adjacent to admiralty house.

We crisscrossed the Parliamentary and Financial Districts of London
Did you know:
The Ministry of Defence, known as the iceberg has far more floors underground than above and houses a nuclear bomb shelter.
And that it is not the clock tower of Westminster that is known as Big Ben but the bell inside which was named after its creator.

And it is thought that Piccadilly Circus, formally was an area where daffodils abounded and people would come to pick them, thus its name.

And then we stopped at Covent Gardens which was once a convent. And the name shifted slightly in response to the inner London pronunciation to Covent.

Covent Garden
Cuisine, markets, quaint curiosity stores, opera singers and bustle. We loved it and once more there was the opportunity to shop. New to the currency, Mary Ann stung me for a pound as she short paid for her souvenirs. Having given up in frustration, the shop keeper waited until she left and then said very distinctly to me, "your friend owes me a pound" given the shopping zeal that was consuming her, I thought it easier to quietly pay and simply followed in her wake.
Wilkinson coasters, magnets, postcards, mint fudge and the quest for the hidden signs of the Templar drove her on.

Our last stop with the guide was the tower
Built by William as a fortress, it has of course housed throughout history many deemed as traitors to the state. The last nefarious visitor, was Herman Hess. The traitors Gate and formidable walls were grim reminders of its past. Footsore we queued for the crown jewels, yet a hidden benefit of a tour group is that you walk past those who patiently wait.
Surprisingly, it was the smallest of the crowns that attracted our attention. Queen Victoria had, had one specially designed - light and small to suit her stature, it appeared child sized beside the other traditional once, which gleamed with the stolen gems from the empire days. Thus the reference to India as 'jewel of the crown'.


As the day drew to a close, and we faltered in energy we came to rest on The Thames Cruise. The tide was, after having dropped eleven feet, now rapidly returning. kayakers were enjoying being carried by the rushing flow of water, but still in places the sands of The thames were visible, as were the steps (39?) which descended from the stone wall which ran the course. We decided to call our Captain, Captain Moonlight, who. Rather than navigating the ship provided us with a commentary (for a small gratuity) as we passed the more famous sights of Westminster, The Eye, Tower bridge, London Bridge, the pirate ship,the London University, and others
This time given our low energy levels was much needed. Returning to the tower, after yet another shop for shot glasses, we sought directions ( note to men: we have had great success in finding our way, surprisingly, if one asks for directions and help, it is given) to the nearest tube station, Monument, and were whisked to Angel Station, only a short walk from our hotel. Exhausted we returned having gathered a lovely salmon quiche and an Italian pinot gris along the way.

Dover to Calais

Hi rob
We are at dover and have five minutes before boarding. 4am wake up call this morning and so we begin exhausted. Mary ann is hassling me about time .. As I am constantly the time keeper. Will write more if wifi on boat.

Love Tess

You can share what Tess has written at the following link. Hopefully. Rob

https://public.me.com/vinesfam1

Still Day 3 - Desert Storm

Or Riding the Dunes with the Stig

Exhausted but not defeated by the extreme heat of the morning expedition, we emerged for an afternoon of adrenalin pumping sport and found ourselves once more in the company of men.

Glen had just arrived from Perth and was keen to venture forth, four delightful, cherry young men from Bangladesh and last but far from least Mohamed, the crazed Syrian, whose driving caused alarm even before we struck the sand.

We left Dubai in a blaze of speed, tail gating and passing all in our path. We were on a raceway, our average speed grew to 140 miles per hour. And for the first, but not the last in the course of the evening, we began to fear for our lives.

Mohamed was a man of few words who did little to alleviate the nerves. ( we wondered later, if we should have joined him with the hashish or sish pipes but thought at least the passengers, should be sober, to scream on the return trip)

The boys were bemused to find two women travelling. Where were our children, our husbands?

They were affable and great fun

By the time we turned to the dunes, they had given us their business cards and invited us to visit.

We learnt:

They were not only friends, but worked in the fashion industry as manufacturers.

They were on a working holiday in Dubai setting up outlets

One was married and another would make his selection of wife within six months

Bangladesh had no open roads such as the one on which we travelled and was much cooler

The Stig has nothing on the Mohamed he swept across the dunes at breakneck speed. We rose and fell and tilted alarmingly on the dunes. We'd perch precariously before expecting to free fall. Constantly he manoeuvred for maximum discomfort and fear all the while texting and calling on his cell phone.

Tick yes to the following - alarmed, scared, exhilarated, -

And while we screamed in terror, Mohamed remained silent, unperturbed, detached.

One of our new found friends was absolutely terrified - and screamed for it to stop.

Then we slid within inches of another vehicle and stopped to render assistance to a 4wheel drive which had broken down. Men gathered, and we were privileged to watch a secret men's ritual performed with compressors and ceremony. Meanwhile we recovered in the 40 plus heat of the desert where no Shade can be found and our boys played in the sand.

And then we were off. Thank god for the roll bar, I had thought it had only one purpose - survival in case of rolling - but we all hung onto it, as we felt we were being tossed by a roller coaster and this was our last day. And then we saw bitumen, relief until it was crossed and we plunged into the sand once more. Mohammed was from Syria and not the person to photograph, unless surreptitiously. We decided he not only had a shady past but a dubious present.

And then .... The Beduins, Camels, hashish and belly dancing.

Day 3 - The Gold Souk

In Search of Treasure

The Gold Souk

Day 3

There is a narrow, maze of Souks (similar

to the Rambles) that wends their way like a warren through the old city of Dubai.

Venturing out in yet another taxi we crisscrossed the canal in search of the Souks that we heard were lined with gold. As we entered the narrow, traffic, congested lane. We felt we really were falling into Aladdin's cave, doors opened magically and we were beckoned. There we were immersed in treasure -gold upon gold - - diamonds of all shades, rings, bangles, bracelets, earrings, key rings, pendants, chains, ornaments - jewels that sparkled.

And then the haggling began.

We give you first customer price

This is absolutely best price for you

And yes, we did haggle

and succumbed.

The first temptation:

The pale green pendant that just happens to match earrings that I have.

Price - special price - best price - how much would you like to pay - sorry, what about ........... Bargaining .......... Just for you, first customer price of the morning! And afterwards, a shake of the hand And an offer of a cold drink which is politely accepted, and needed given the out door

The Second Temptation

Little side alley bends to the left, catching our eye.

Beautifully textured scarves, wraps, material.

And there we meet Ali greeting us with cashmere in his arms.

He leads us into his shop with the temptation of cashmere.

Which colours would you like - feel the softness of the fabric -

Easy to pack

Am going to England

Good present.

Emma and Saskia are in Canberra, cold winters

And then we haggle:

Finally agreement, but I have forgotten, little cash in wallet.

A card?

No problem, come with me

And once again we find ourselves in the company of a very pleasant much younger stranger, Ali being lead through the labyrinth and maze of Dubai. Every now and then he turns to ensure Mary Ann follows. We enter three stores to no avail, their credit machines are yet to start for the day. and he leads on, signalling for us to follow, reassuring us. We enter -- coolness - more expensive - and tour. Down a small corridor at the back and there we find an automatic teller. Ali is paid, he leaves us a friend inviting us to return to his shop for a cold drink -coffee - tea.

We will be welcome at any time.

Temptation 3

The fall of Mary Ann

At the end of the walkway we find a small jewellers whose window catches our eye, and once again the door opens intuitively and we are greeted, once again with warmth ( salesmanship )

We are looking for something small for our daughters.

Which transforms to trays being brought from cabinets.

For this transaction I for some reason become the mannequin and have my wrist adorned with gold bracelets.

Finally, one is selected and after protracted negotiation, closure is imminent - and then a second, interwoven white with gold, gold emerges onto the counter and slips gingerly onto Mary Ann's wrist, fitting beautifully.

And really what choice remains but to buy them both.

I on the other hand have shown great restraint and purchased only a small pair of earrings for Emma.

After farewells and offers of more cold water we return to the blazing heat, retreat to another taxi and head for the hotel - to wait for the Safari pick up at 4.30 and to recover from yet another 3.30am start.

Day 2 - Dubai

The men in our lives!

Dubai - Day 2

I commented today that this has been a holiday of encounters with males. And even though Rob happens to be so many miles away, he has contributed to the day, not simply by the use of his credit card.

But first - (read previous entry ) - the friend we encountered as we perused the brochures in the foyer did actually work for the hotel and so we felt safe to entrust ourselves to him for a city tour.

1And so some details: his name is Fayaz, he is from Pakistan, married, has two very young children who he only sees for a short time once a year as they remained in Pakistan, he has been working in Dubai for twelve months, his father died 29 years ago, his grandfather migrated to the states soon after leaving his family in a very precarious position. he is Muslim, believes in a creator and is intrigued about the suns composition . He can't believe it is gas! But rather the heater that God burns to warm all homes and earth. But he did have a very good lesson concerning children. He

asked whether our children contributed funds to assist us. We were amused to say the least. (listening Rob,Tim, Brett and Chris) in Pakistan and India, women over fifty do not work and their sons help to financially support them. Sounds good to me. We

assured him there are ways to receive support sons do well. But ... If

like to contribute to the wellbeing of your mothers traveling . . . Actually sorry Emma the burden has you . . No allowance until my return as I am on half the duration .... But you do have that piece of Am Ex father to call on.

many and our you would while fallen on pay for and your

And so our adventure began. He found us after breakfast ( a particular good buffet - which reads smoked salmon and fresh fruit included as well as am omelette chef)) ushered us into the hotel car and through the streets we went. Dubai is a strange mix.

Wonderful Network of ring roads combined with dust, construction, at times congestion and certainly smog. The day began at 35degrees and by the time we finished it was well into the mid forties and we were consuming vast quantities of water. I have decided my favourite fluid is water. I never want to live in a place where I need to buy it. Surprisingly, traffic was fairly orderly, nothing like the chaos of Rome or Athens,

although we did see a rear ender on our return.

Our first real stop was which now housed period reconstructios. The projected the age of this of Pompeii - human

the museum, an old fort historical exhibitions and archeological finds certainly civilization and reminded me skeletons from a much earlier

2

era in an earthen / stone grave curled on their sides in some macabre representation of sleep. Bronze age implements and various pieces of pottery - I love the breaks and cracks, I suppose someone has meticulously pieced them together yet they contain

such many of valued even incomplete having Donne worlds have Forbidding body and writes), it would be lovely if it happened for all these pieces from antiquity - zeus's statue to rise again etc - yes I did watch Clash of the Titans on the flight. The reconstructions of life's activities / boat makers /aritisans/scribes/ etc had realism, especially within the mud brick walls. The dominance of males and the hidden nature of women permeated all. I was wondering why in such a climate as this it is the males who wear the cool cotton white while females are clothed in punishing black!

fragility, and cause are though -actually maybe we value them more highly for endured in this state. I was thinking of that John poem which I think it has a line or title At earths / round corner (I'll have to look it up if I manage to Internet access) or it could be Valediction Mourning, when all the pieces pertaining to ones soul will be summoned and reunited ( or so Donne

Anyway we moved on. Our driver never hurried us. He drove us to the consulates, the palaces, the marina ( which if I returned would be where I'd

seek accommodation - water and an abundance of restaurants /cafes, and parkland). We explored the Islamic art and Cultural Centre and while there were many exquisite pieces the prices were for Shieks rather than such as us. The tapestries, wall hangings and shawls were the most impressive

- again the hidden lives of women - many were hand woven/stitched with gold thread throughout and covered in semiprecious stones - one wrap which had the softest of touches had been woven from the fur of that catchcs from the goat's neck as they pass through the brittle grass /shrubs.

The architecture of the hotels and corporate buildings is striking. Most has risen from the desert floor in the last 40 years. What amazed was that it was not simply

3

utilitarian value that they sought but also an aesthetic quality( too much conflicting 19th C ideologies in my thinking - ) the architects must have loved the artistic and structural freedom they were given. Of course it was the Sail hotel that stands on the water as the most impressive. This is where I should of course insert my photo.

And this brings me to Rob, who though not traveling with me made his presence felt. Gadget guy who admitted hobbled through the house prior to my departure systematically gathering all electronic devices for this trip for me, he had emptied photo cards, installed everything I could possibly need (apps, music - unfortunately it did load the last of the music we had uploaded to Rob's computer which happened to be what I had compiled for Mum's funeral / remembrance - films) He and gadget guy junior had turned off everything possible on the Iphone - data roaming, wireless, Bluetooth, apps which might update etc - leaving it in idiot mode for me so as not to incur prohibitive phone bills. This guy had advised when asked that the camera battery was fine, fully charged - and of course I believed ( see my deference, just as well we leave Dubai soon) and of course I now stood in front of this building, and on a city tour without a charged SLR - and so turned to my Iphone for some shots. So the rest of the photos of the tour will be drawn from my sister's most up to date, light weight Sony SLR.

And now we return to Fayaz, extremely engaging and helpful.

An aside - further to the marvels of this city of the desert, is a ski slope housed within a designer shopping mall - imagine the energy which must go into sustaining this, given the outside temperature as we enter is 45degrees.

Fayaz has of course assured us throughout how he is saving money, the tour through him being cheaper etc. And when we speak of the canal night cruise and dinner we are thinking of, immediately reaches for his mobile, dials a number and who would have thought it is all organized, for again a great saving. and as he leaves us to the ski field and the shopping experience within one of the Shiek's mall (understatement) wonder about our friend Fayaz.

I of course search for free wifi to no avail, Mary Ann seeks presents for the multitude of children in her life and slowly as our body temperature lowers and our body rehydrate, we start to question the veracity of our friend who has jus t been paid in Australian dollars. Of course this doubt that is forming, is enhanced by the taxi driver who returns as after an unasked for city tour to our hotel where we find once more Fayez ready to assist as currency conveyer for us as soon as we mention the need to

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change money. When we speak of the night cruise and ask about using a card Fayez phones his friend. Unfortunately, only cash will suffice.

And now the tale turns. Call us inconstant but we have wearied a little of our new found friend and his growing intrusion into our lives and decide the Safari booking (contrary to Fayez's advice) will be through the Concierge.

Innocently, he asks - do we need any assistance, perhaps a city tour or canal cruise? No - we reply, - one has been done the other, organized.

Curious, he asks - with whom? We reply - oh one of the hotel drivers.

Fury mounts. We decide, it's best not to recall Fayez's name.

He gives us a small lecture on the security of operating through the hotel desk and promises us a better price on the cruise.

And we feeling contrite, allow him to cancel our arrangements for the evening and say we will now book through him.

30minutes later call to room, - could we please come to his desk, about the booking - actually thought there may have been a problem with my using Rob's visa card.

I return downstairs to find the Concierge with two men ( read errant school boys - one of whom is Fayez

Obviously they have had words, the air is charged and I feel reminded of school and being summoned to the Principal's office.

Which one was it, asks the concierge

And while I would like I stayed constant to my new found friend, I thought it wrong that the other carry any guilt by association. And so I caved, and quickly added how wonderfully kind he had been etc etc and how I hoped that nothing untoward would happen. But I suspect Fayez will survive most things.

And then we parted, the concierge having taken charge of us and our arrangements.

And forgiven me when I admitted - that this is what happens when women are left to travel unaccompanied by their husbands ( It''s a worry and I think time to leave a

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country when you start making such statement) they of course laughed but I though sagely nodded.

And so, you see Rob once again though so many miles away came to my rescue.

I am sure I will return a much more obedient, respectful wife ... Though it is only the beginning of the holiday and who knows what the future travels will bring.

...................................

Canal Cruise: ( photos not uploaded yet)

We felt as though we had joined a Hollywood party on board a rustic wooden ferry.

The buffet was a mix - Indian, Lebanese and Russian.

Throughout we cruised the canal watching the play of light from the modern skyscrape.

The evening ended with the most amateurish magician show by a lovely young Indian, who was so friendly the audience forgave him. A show of bollywood dancing from the young Indian girls and preschoolers in the audience closed the night and we travelled home with a family of boisterous Indians down narrow lanes.

We returned, exhausted to find a complimentary basket of fruit in our room. Obviously we have been forgiven.

Best wishes Tess

PS I would like to say we learn our lesson but it is now tomorrow and we have just returned from the gold souk where yet again we placed our fate in the hands of others but that is another entry.

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7

Day 1 - Dubai

We are safely ensconced in Dubai - 37 degrees and of course we are exhausted.

I am not really sure why I am here but hopefully tomorrow when we are less jaded we will find some adventures. I think we have been awake far too long today to be able to yet appreciate a new place. I fear that if this a liberal Islamic state then the world is a worrying place for women. As we came through customs the young man cloaked in traditional garb could not bring himself to speak nor raise his eyes to us and there truly is a distinct lack of female presence as you move through the streets. Generally, males stands in groups on sides of dusty roads or corners and certainly put out no vibes of friendliness, quite the opposite. I think I'll need to acquire the appearance of deference, lower my eyes at all times when passing them. Even the women that we have encountered seem taciturn and closed. But tomorrow is another day and we will bravely go into the souks in search of Arabian treasures and may even be guided by this guy who approached us last night as we were seeking for pamphlets. He assured me he would do a particularly good price for us for a city tour, gave me his number to phone and of course did say he worked in some capacity for the hotel. We might check with the hotel first to see if he is legit. I have decided

oncoming traffic wrong direction and cautious ways from past trips holding mine to contact with

have to stay something that

But good people encounters have On the flight Emma and Matthew, stewards, spent a long time chatting to us when and wrote many suggestions for sights for us to explore in Dubai. There must be something about two middle aged sisters traveling together that allows people to feel relaxed. Maybe it is that naive traveller abroad aura that emanates from us.

And so we continue: Adventure before dementia!

especially after I stepped out into after having carefully checked the

that it must be Rob's discerning that have brought me safely home overseas. I do rather miss his hand cross the streets and he making strangers for me. I know "I'll just present and alert etc but it is not comes easily to me"

continued.

U

Day Zero

Hopefully this wIll work 1 st from Dubai

It’s Party Time! Day Zero

It must be two middle aged sisters traveling together or perhaps the ' naive strangers abroad sign' that we transmit but we have already had the most kind encounters with people and it is only hours into departure.

Day Zero saw us ensconced in the bar of the Mercure Hotel dining on tempuri fish and chips and enjoying a well earned (after weeks of frenzied, harried work and servitude to the lame one with whom I reside) glass or two or three of riesling.

There we were entertaining the residents with our seating indecision (table too high, chair too low, TV too dominant, needed another two chairs for Brett and Marnie) which started conversation with at least three tables, and encouraged our extraordinarily flamboyant barman , who scolded us for disappearing without our dinner number. He was great fun and by the end of the evening was mixing a special cocktail for Mary Ann - bailies ,frangelica, cointreau, cream - exquisitely presented with great ceremony and banter.

This morning as we waited in the foyer, we encountered Jock from Johanesburg - his plane had been detained and he was off to Auckland for a job interview. Fortunately, at the last moment he decided not to share our taxi which had absolutely no room for baggage - the boot was filled with 'gas .....' and the spare tyre.Consequently, the baggage traveled as first class passengers and we were squeezed in the back with the second suitcase. now if we had been a family of four? This probably the right moment to refer to my sister's packing - enormous suitcase, weighed on at 28 kegs - imagine the weight on the return !

Jock spoke to us of South Africa, its beauty and changing times. He believes the world will need the next generation for social and economic change to really occur. Actually, he spoke of entrenched paradigms which made me smile as it is a phrase common to my classroom.

And now having walked the length of economy, squeezing between capacious aisles and stumbling over various extruding body parts, we have chatted at length with Emma and Matthew, the stewardess / steward who enjoyed the distraction of advising us on Dubai and Bangkok.

By the way, the film, "The Men who stare at goats" (psychic soldiers in Iraq) is a only to watch if you are being held captive in economy class, and now for a complete change I think I'll turn to The Last Station (Tolstoy's last days - which was a fascinating read and I hadn't realized is now a film) and then Robin Hood and Mother and Daughters ......

But perhaps first I should finally read my itinerary - apparently we do not arrive back until the 27th October, of course I believed the 25th to be arrival time. So much for thinking that I would have a few recovery days before resuming school -

Amanda if you are reading this and free on that day any chance of an airport pick up? -

Ah well the best made plans .....