Day 6 _ London to Paris

We returned to the closed roads of London town. The Pope had inconvenienced us once more,this time we were dropped further from home, which necessitated not only a ride on the Tube but a change online at Kings Cross. Exhausted once agin, we trudged to the hotel, after a brief sojourn in the local Starbucks for free wi fi, knowing that our next day was to commence at 4am.. Day 1 of The Cosmopolitan Tour.


Last Hours In London
This holiday has been dominated by three am starts. The departure from Sydney scheduled for 6am necessitated a taxi ride at that hour, jet lag in Dubai saw us sipping tea and chatting at that time and now our departure from London again broke our sleep ( while for an insomniac such as myself it has been manageable, it is taking a mean toll on my traveling companion)
The London streets were empty as we sped through them in search of the others who were to join us, then on to Dover ( 2 hours), across the Channel (90 minutes), and Calais to Paris (4 hrs 30mins) one would think that rest would follow such a journey but we are far from fainthearted travelers. Bags deposited into the room ( aside, it is here that our chronic shopper, comes unstuck, or rather her bag that decides that it can hold no more and bursts at the seems warranting bandaging and strapping and a new approach to packing) returned to the bus 30 minutes later for sightseeing and a boat cruise at night on The Seine.

The Arc de Triumph

Which stands in the centre of six roads, is a challenge for all merging and turning drivers. It is unlined, traffic converges and diverges in all directions and yet it somehow works, without the sounds of horns blaring or drivers screaming. Apparently, there is only one rule, give way to the right, and on listening to Gabrielle who took us through the Paris tour, the appropriate expression for surprising encounters with vehicles is ooh laa laa which she used on a number of occasions. Our Italian driver, Antonio seems to have other expressions which he favours while Barry, our tour guide, remains unfazed by it all with his mind more directed to his charges and the schedules which must be kept.

And so we were spilled upon The Champs élysées to enjoy the buzz in the air, the designer stores and our first true taste of France. And so we explored, slowly at leisure walking this famous avenue.Postcards were purchased, photos taken, and shops beckoned in their most artistic ways. I almost succumbed to a pair of deep, blue crystal earrings. But at the eleventh hour resisted.


Back on the bus, with the light falling we began to see the Paris evening opening before us. A quick stop to film the Eiffel Tower and then down to the docks for The cruise and Paris at night. The night though cool still allowed us to sit outside.
Historic buildings line this river and their beauty is enhanced by the illumination of the lights. Especially, the eiffel tower which sparkles with a silver light, overplaying the gold illumination and penetrating the night sky with a signal beam. We passed under the many bridges of Paris, slowly cruising the Seine and the seeing the play of light upon the water and the buildings.
Eventually it was home to bed, a few hours sleep and ....

Paris by Day
With Gabrielle, a petite French women with a revolutionary vision, and an exceptional knowledge of this city, its history and art. Through the streets, Antonio was guided. He wended through the Chaos of Paris, steering through narrow arches that we would hesitate to drive anything but a fiat bambino through, he thread his way through the throng of cars and managed (just) not to skittles the pedestrians who walked with a sense of abandonment. As we emerged at Napoleon's Tomb for a photo shot, they came from nowhere, with their jingle of Eiffel tower, scarves, watches, these hawkers who surrounded us. Some overly eager for a sale, and seeing a prospective sale in the hesitant interest of the young girls seated opposite, began to climb the stairs of the bus until Gabrielle ever vigilant expelled them from the bus.

And then we were once again weaving through the street, into the student quarter, the administrative section, past consulates and on to the Eiffel tour which rose within a bevy of tourists. Once again we took precedent over the waiting queues and entered the lifts to emerge on the second flight. Speaking of flight,it is what Mary Ann, intrepid traveler almost took. Her Achilles heel has been detected -an anxiety, a phobia - and one shared with her sister - a fear of heights. With caution she left the safety of the lift and with trepidation approached the railing for the marvellous views of Paris. With circled the tower enjoying Paris held in all directions before us.


With no time for coffee only for encounters with more hawkers and an elderly Gypsy woman with a cragged, and ancient face, who told of her woes through a note. " My husband is dead, my son has leukemia, I have three children to feed, please some money." we couldn't help but wonder at the age of these children, for she appeared in excess of 90, however we were impressed that she had learnt a new way. We would have found her much more convincing had she told us that she would curse us, spit on us etc if we did not help.. . And so we moved on with little generosity in our hearts, to the Louvre.


Again I feel humbled as I enter the Louvre not it's overturned glass security pyramid but the museum itself. I'm sure it is a place that one could spend part of each day of ones life exploring, sitting and thinking. Each room has so much to offer but as always when you are a traveler time does not afford that luxury. Yet this visit was significant, Gabrielle was a wonderful guide, just the right amount of information. She showed us the highlights as we would know them and then explained many others aaa she past. I spoke as though she had a fine arts degree, with a knowledge not only of the artist butt the historical and personal context in which it had been written. She also spoke of the style of art, of colour and brushstroke. I am never sure why the Mona Lisa is so revered, there are so many others that I prefer. She believed the Mona lisa is esteemed so highly because of the publicity is has been given. Apparently it was stolen in 1911 and it was
only when the thief tried to sell it to a dealer in 1914 that it was recovered. The ensuing publicity was what brought it to the attention of the public and so established it's reputation. And so under her guidance she lead us through the louvre. Antiquity, classic, romantics, Byzantium art, landscapes, raphaelites, pre-Raphaelites etc but all the time we felt she had a particular fondness for the art of the revolution and for Napoleon who followed.

Eventually we emerged and after a cold mineral water returned to our coach, to re turn for a brief rest, shower, change and then we were whisked away once more to The infamous Moulin Rouge.



Unfortunately, cameras were prohibited. However we have photographed the program to record the spectacular visual feast of the night. We expected a down at heel theatre, a true faded rose and yet although, yes, the tables were packed in and crowded,it was something that didn't matter. Everything was incidental to the performance itself. The food was nondescript, though the desert rich chocolate was so rich that even Rob would have had trouble finishing it. . The beginning of the evening was filled with cabaret singers. Strong voices, sometimes jazz numbers and at times more popular music drawn from our vintage sang forth. They were excellent, though not given the attention they truly deserved. And then came the girls - such beauty, vitality and energy.


Descriptions will not do the evening justice. But dancing, chorus lines, singers, a mosaic of different periods, times and styles blended together, ventriloquists, acrobatics, circus performances etc - one following fluently after the other filled the stage. It was without doubt the most spectacular show I have seen.


I know that people have had trouble opening the entries I've sent and thought maybe this would work as an update.
I will write more personal emails especially now that we finally have free wifi. We are now in Barcelona after two big days of travels. Avaignon I will write up soon - a walled city, pal is of the popes situated on a fast flowing River. The people on the coach are very friendly, mostly Australian.
Best wishes
Tess
If you want pictures visit the blog I will send you the link in another email.