We wanted to visit Salem because we teach The Crucible, Arthur Miller's play about the hysteria surrounding the witch trials and Senator McCarthy's anti-communist crusade of the 1950s. So 30 minutes later we arrived at a typical US station - rather neglected even by Australian standards - and followed the crowd towards the town. I wasn't sure what to expect. I knew it would be more than the small village of the 1690s of the play but the reality was rather disappointing at first.
While we posed for a silly, Good-Luck-Yr12- photo in front of a Salem sign, we heard a noise just like a prison door closing from the movies. We discovered it was the pedestrian crossing signal in these parts. An awful noise but given the large prison population in the States, perhaps just conditioning??
Given the volume of tourists, the town is well sign posted. Our first stop should have been a lovely ice cream shop (due to delays it was now midday, time for some food!) but instead we walked a way in the sun to the Salem Witch House, one of many tourist traps to avoid and the main business for the town given the American Halloween tradition. We then made our way to the excellent touirst information office where a kindly old gentlemen from National Parks gave us some good tips for teachers wanting to know the real history of the town.
Salem holds an important place in American history quite separate from the unfortunate witch trials of 1692. It was the Colony's largest port before New York and Boston overtook it as it silted up. Because of trade with the West Indies and England, Salem became an early battleground in the American Revolution and the Harbour we visited shows off this proud heritage.
Most of those accused of Witchcraft came from the neighbouring Salem Village, now called Danvers. A visit will have to wait for next trip (Salem would make a good base for a car tour of New England) but what remains of the larger town after the fire of 1914 is still impressive in places - lovely historic buildings of the Federal period. They look Georgian to me.
In fact, Tess is having a morning to herself while I explore more of the city and its sights. Like NYC and Washington, we have barely touched the surface. Friendly people too - we met more than I needed on the return T last night! Need conductors.
Saw the city lights last night from atop the Prudential Tower before dining at the 5 Napkins Burger joint nearby. Tess enjoyed her lamb burger. I had hotdogs. Chow!
1 comment:
Sounds like you're still having fun, despite the tiredness brought on by so much travelling. Hope your base in Boston allows recuperation, though you may need another hotel.
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